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I got my 352 out and laying on its side, the left bank head is off, the oil pan is off, pulled no 7 rod and piston out, found a broken comp. ring and ring gland. checked the bore with the second ring, not shur if the ring was all there, but when I put in the bore, pused down about 3". My old feeler gauge was rusted, borrowed one that was long and thin number were on it, and what I thought I was reading was .40 . thinkl the book says .006 .010 on comp. ring end gap.
should I go ahead and get it bored and sleeve it? I'm 75mi. from the nearest automotive machine shop, and I'll have to pull the crank, need to find borer that is more portable, or else another $300. complete overhual job, sorry fellows, I;d love to do all that, but I'm 71 and doing my own work, the cheapest I can.
What I've learnd, from machinest, 352 has 3 15/16 bore, 360 and 390 has 4" bore 390 crank has taperd throws between the rod bearings.
another 'Question are the 351 and 352 pistons the same, ask some one about 352 pistons and they say WHAT. thank for your expert advise.
352s have not been built since about 1965 - most parts people were not even born then. You need to visit the FE forum - there are a lot of experts there.
But to answer your question, the 351 and the 352 are different engines, and their pistons will not interchange.
I am not sure that using a used ring in only one location and checking only one cylinder is a valid way to check the block.
If you are looking for an engine that will last 100,000 miles or more, then you likely need to bore it, and replace all the pistons. There are shortcuts you can take - like expanding the existing pistons which worked when I was a kid - but it is hard to find a machine shop who would be willing to do this.
It may be cheaper by far to find a used FE engine of any size and install it - there were a few changes in the motor mounts about that time, but all FEs are basically the same block.
sorry, I meant piston, considered a wallet but even that was empty, thanks any way.
$1330 I could build 3 of my own for that kind of money, and know what was in it.
In 67, I believe the 352 was the only FE engine option in these trucks. It was dropped for 68.
Why not go to a tool store and get a bore snap gauge set? I got mine for something like $30, full set of six that does from 1/4" to 6" bores.
The rings are a softer material than the walls, so they will wear faster.
thanks , sounds good to me theres a habor frieght in alb. just dont like to by there, had to return to meny tools. thanks again, for a one time thing I'll look it to renting the mikes.
I have a friend who burned a hole in the top of a piston while down in Mexico. The shop there towed him 30 miles (no tow truck, just a chain and the owner's car), dropped the pan and removed the head, replaced the bad piston with a used one with used rings and sent him on his way. They only charged him $200!
That was 7 years ago, and he is still using the truck - likely 50K miles or better.
sorry, I meant piston, considered a wallet but even that was empty, thanks any way.
$1330 I could build 3 of my own for that kind of money, and know what was in it.
the last one i did cost over 4,100.00 for my 390. but a stock engine can e built for cheap. if the walls are in spec just hone them.
i get most of my parts from a old guy named bruce who owns www.partsdinosaur.com the last cheap build up i did was under 260.00. including new bearings rings and a full gasket set.
Thanks One And All, Emailed Northern Parts, And They Are Sending Me A Re- Ring Set And Standard Piston For $ 109.50. Shipping Encluded.
Goin Take My Time And Check Rods And Main. I See Selicone Gasket Sealer On The Oil Pan So Ithink With The Compresson It Has, Its Been Rework Before There No Clyinder Redges, And The One Bearing I Took Out Look Good.
Complete Overhaul Kit For The Ford Engine Is $ 467.00 Even Thats Preaty Good. But At This Time Can't See My Way Though The Messes To Go That Way, Thanks Again.
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