- I think of it as a "BLASTERPACK"

It uses relays to put direct power into the headlights with no losses through the wiring harness. This one is going into a Toyota, but the same method works for all FORD TRUCKS.

Schematic to follow.

The relays are triggered by what used to be the headlight circuits. When they energise, twelve volts direct from the battery is passed through the fuse block (top unit) to the relay contacts and straight to the lights. The headlights are grounded at the nearest possible ground point...

The mounting bracket was fabricated from scrap aluminum.



This unit is ready for installation, the only wires missing are those that will run directly to the headlight plugs.

As to the relays:

The two on the left are for high beams. The one on the right is for low beams.

This provides 20 amps each for HB's , and 20 AMPS combined for the low - which is way over what the rated current draw is.

OVERBUILD, and you won't have to do it over...

 

That is a handy device, keeps the lamps as bright as can be and saves your headlight switch in the process! I built one for my Police Package LTD so I could run 100W H4 lamps. I used two Circuit Breakers in place of fuses, figured I would have a second chance if I unpligged the offending bulb in the case of a deer strike.

 

100 watts divided by 12 volts is about 8 and a third amps each bulb will pull. Well within limits, but watch your wire guage on the install.

The above unit worked out well. There were one or two issues not related to the unit I built though, which was not suprising.

Bluntly - the lights are now TWICE as bright as they were.

 

Where did you locate the multiple fuse box panel?
I am getting ready to do the install on my 1976 F150 4x4.
14 guage wire though out the electrical system was used?

 

www.JcWhitney.com has them. Type in "fuse" in the search box.

 

Advance Auto, Autozone, NAPA, etc...

Mine came from a-zone but I mostly go to Advance because of better support and selection.