Stud Rust - Can't take it any more!
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 7
From: Burnsville, MN
Stud Rust - Can't take it any more!
My '05 (with steel wheels) sits outdoors in MN, two winters now, and of course the wheel studs are rusting. Problem is, I've got a 15-year-old car with a lot less stud rust than I've picked up here on a 1-year-old truck!
While I know you're not supposed to oil/grease the studs because it might throw off proper torquing of the wheel nuts, I've certainly done this on occasion to cars without any negative consequences.
My question is, does anyone know of any specific horror stories resulting from the presumed overtorquing of wheel nuts due to them having been greased/oiled?
On a side note, I'm even seeing the same magnified rust forming inside the engine compartment on top of the shocks, and there's just not a whole lot of road salt there. Of course there's no potential problem coating those threads, unlike the wheels.
Like to hear experiences/ opinions, Thanks.
While I know you're not supposed to oil/grease the studs because it might throw off proper torquing of the wheel nuts, I've certainly done this on occasion to cars without any negative consequences.
My question is, does anyone know of any specific horror stories resulting from the presumed overtorquing of wheel nuts due to them having been greased/oiled?
On a side note, I'm even seeing the same magnified rust forming inside the engine compartment on top of the shocks, and there's just not a whole lot of road salt there. Of course there's no potential problem coating those threads, unlike the wheels.
Like to hear experiences/ opinions, Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Lots of stories either way.
Aerospace and military requirements are for a clean lubricated fastener to get a proper torque reading. Fasterners don't hold because of rust or dirt. They hold because the fastener stretches a tiny bit acting like a spring and thus clamping whatever it is down.
What I have done for years is to clean the studs with a wirebrush, but not always due to laziness. And then I use a tiny dab of Antisieze on each thread. Then I torque the nuts to spec and then torque again. I have never had a nut come loose on me in maybe 20 years of doing it this way. I did have a wheel fall of when I relied on rust to hold things together.
One other benefit of clean and antisiezed, is that when you do need to remove the nut, it is much easier than when rusty.
Rust causes inconsistent torque readings. Think about it. The last time you torqued a rusty fastener, didn't it kind of stop and start? That is the rust breaking loose from the surface and releasing the tension on the nut. You cannot get a consistent reading from a dirty fastener.
The mil aerospace guys usually have a "dry and clean" torque and a "lubricated clean" spec. They never have a spec for rusty.
Of course I have read(car rag?) many years ago that rusty kept the nuts from loosening. Maybe right but unreliable.
Just a tiny dab of Antisieze. just barely enough to cause a raised spot on the threads in a couple places. Most of it gets wiped out of the threads as you turn the nut down. I use Permatex. I still have the same tube I bought maybe 20 years ago and it is just now almost empty.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Aerospace and military requirements are for a clean lubricated fastener to get a proper torque reading. Fasterners don't hold because of rust or dirt. They hold because the fastener stretches a tiny bit acting like a spring and thus clamping whatever it is down.
What I have done for years is to clean the studs with a wirebrush, but not always due to laziness. And then I use a tiny dab of Antisieze on each thread. Then I torque the nuts to spec and then torque again. I have never had a nut come loose on me in maybe 20 years of doing it this way. I did have a wheel fall of when I relied on rust to hold things together.
One other benefit of clean and antisiezed, is that when you do need to remove the nut, it is much easier than when rusty.
Rust causes inconsistent torque readings. Think about it. The last time you torqued a rusty fastener, didn't it kind of stop and start? That is the rust breaking loose from the surface and releasing the tension on the nut. You cannot get a consistent reading from a dirty fastener.
The mil aerospace guys usually have a "dry and clean" torque and a "lubricated clean" spec. They never have a spec for rusty.
Of course I have read(car rag?) many years ago that rusty kept the nuts from loosening. Maybe right but unreliable.
Just a tiny dab of Antisieze. just barely enough to cause a raised spot on the threads in a couple places. Most of it gets wiped out of the threads as you turn the nut down. I use Permatex. I still have the same tube I bought maybe 20 years ago and it is just now almost empty.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Everything rusts here. We have lotsa salt. I bought some spray in a can and it works real slick. It just takes a little, I go around and spray anything that looks like it will rust.
Its called slick 50 1 lube comes in 12 oz spray can. Easy. I also use anti sieze by the gallon. LOL
Dick
Its called slick 50 1 lube comes in 12 oz spray can. Easy. I also use anti sieze by the gallon. LOL
Dick
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
i 2nd the antiseeze paste...go with the nickel, not copper. the recent change of many municipalities from 'rock salt' to a 'brine' to spray on roads seems to be eating up vehicles...including rotors, brakes, brake lines, fuel lines, etc.
