jsut got everything back thgether in my 69 f100 after a simple cam replacement turned in to a nightmare ( had to do cam bearings, springs, and a couple of other things). started it up and after reaching operating temp. i noticed the lower radiator hose collapsing when the engine was reved. does this meen the radiator is clogged? it also over heats ,220-260 with a 160 thermosatat in, when driving. i was thinking of replacing the radiator with a cheap one from advance, it's a modine #433 for 140.00. they also have a go/dan 3 row copper/brass for 220.00, which is the max i can afford. would i be better off to replace the radaitor or have mine rodded and a few small leaks fixed, mine is what ever came with the truck and has been repaired a few times. thanks for the advise

 

a little more info. off my radiator i have, it has the following on top beside the upper neck.
c8ta-ck
p mo 69 07

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jun-02 AT 09:41 PM (EST)] Could it be as simple as installing a new lower rad hose
Maybe the collapsing hose is limiting the coolant flow.

Sparky

 

The coil inside the hose is letting it collapse. It is probably rusted through. A new hose would be the first place to start. I wouldn't let it get up to 260 again. Also try a hotter stat. An engine can overheat if the cooling system is not good enough to keep a 160 temp. It passes it through the rad so fast it has no time to cool it. I would go with a 190.

 

i got new hoses top and bottom but no spring inside, tried a 190 thermostat but had the same results. i don't see much movement of the antifreeze with the cap off and there was some hard black goo in the lower neck. thats why i was thinking stopped up radiator. engine is clean all that was done when i had it apart.

 

Yeah I'm thinking a new radiator might be in order. You may want to try poring a bottle of some radiator flush in and letting it set overnight and flushing it out the next day. If there is just too much crap you can either have your radiator rodded out or get a new one.

 

I'm still new at the mechanical end of things that said, here's my experience. I have a '67 F-100, orginal engine was a 240 cid 6 banger somewhere along the way a 351C was put in and it must have had the same radiator because it would overheat just sitting still or in hot weather, so yes I bit the bullet and bought a new 4 core radiator, 6-bladed flex-fan and extension, water pump, hoses, 190 degree thermostat,and engine backflushed. Results? That sucker WILL NOT overheat at all whether I'm going up and over hills or sitting in traffic for extended time periods. Yes I'm happy with it now.

 

Kurt, Are you sure the t-stat is in the correct way. There is a flow arrow on it. Flushing the rad. would be a good idea. I have not had this problem, but have read where air is trapped in the engine.

Sean, the t-stat is a doorway that can open sooner or later for flow. The water pump would control the flow rate through the radiator. This is a closed system and can't be adjusted without changing the pump.
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

checked the thermostat twice just to be sure. i think i'm going with a new radiator. i just hope a 3 row is big enough. did the flex fan help that much? or is a stock fan just as good?

 

Well I will tell you my story with flex fans. I was driving down the road soon after my engine was rebuilt and decided to get on it a little. Next thing I knew there was a massive amount of pounding under the hood and I saw crap flying out from underneath the truck. Soon after I got done cussing god and everything he created I got out of the truck and opened the hood. It was just my fan shroud that came loose and got eaten by the fan. Once I got done apologizing to god I finished ripping the rest of the shroud out of my truck and bending the fan back to a drivable condition and went back home. I then replaced the mangled stock fan with a 18" flex fan. Before the incident I had no cooling problems with the stock fan and shroud but at idle it would climb just above the 160 mark. With the flex fan and no shroud it will not move from the mark so to make a very long story short flex fans (at least the brand I bought) do make a difference. I have to disagree with the thermostat statement John. Thermostats do control when and how much coolant flows as long as the water pump is working properly. The stat isn't either fully open or closed. It is open just enough to keep the thermostat itself at a predetermined temperature and if the thermostat is trying to keep the engine at a temp that it is impossible to keep it at it will stay all the way open and the pump will pump as fast as it possibly can. My wrists hurt now.

 

Sean, maybe you could spound more on this, "An engine can overheat if the cooling system is not good enough to keep a 160 temp. It passes it through the rad so fast it has no time to cool it. I would go with a 190".
I gotta have more info for you to change my mind, it doesn't make sense to me.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Jeez, Biker, buy a new radiator (I did). It will set you back c. $170 but it will, in all probability, fix your problem and every time you open your hood, you will get a nice rush of satisfaction. Your truck will purr with satisfaction.
jor

 

I bought my 4-core radiator about 2 years ago and it was $180.00 all together. I have a 360 and my truck never overheats. Very pleased.

-j.banks-

 

bought a new 3 row radiator and 6 blade flex fan, and i've got a 160 and a 190 thermostat, both tested good. i'll put them in and let you know the out come.