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I have a 1970 F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special that is a pretty nice truck. It has a the original 2V 360 w/ approx. 160000 miles on it and I think the heads were rebuilt (in the mid 80's-I have owned it since 91)about 60000 miles ago but I am unsure. The problem is: I had to add coolant, about half, to the radiator about every week, approx. 350 miles. Finally one day my suspicions were right, she would not start because the back cylinder on the drivers side was full of coolant. I pumped the coolant out and it started fine and ran good but obvisously still had the leak. I am not sure whether this problem is a head gasket or cracked head. Anyone have any ideas? My other problem is that if I spend all that time to fix it I still have a low performance, worn out 360 that leaks oil like crazy. Although it would probably run for another 50000 miles. The wife wants me to get rid of it. Any suggestions on what to do? I would prefer a 390 swap but that sounds like it may be out of my price range.
70 F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special
74 Ford Bronco (waiting for smog exemption)
70 Ford Bronco (sold)
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Jun-02 AT 07:33 PM (EST)]At any rate, coolant in a cylinder is not good. That is a given. In order to effectively check for cracks in a head, you have to remove it and have a machine shop check it. It may only be a head gasket. But you still have to remove the head to see. If you did find the head is cracked, that would be the time decide if you want to go with a rebuild.
If you find the headgasket went bad, and you choose to replace it to get you by another 10, 20, or 30,000 miles, DO NOT HAVE A VALVE JOB DONE!!!! If you do, you just wasted all your time and effort because you will blow out the bottom end with the increased compression.
It's probably the head gasket. Check the head for warpage before you put it back on. The one and only import truck I ever owned filled a cylinder with coolant. The aluminum head was warped .040, had it milled and put on 50,000 miles afterward.
Warpage usually isn't an issue you should concern yourself with when it comes to cast iron. Aluminum heads with "stretch" bolts are designed to warp- feature that. It was supposedly a design to help decrease engine damage when an engine overheated. But because one cannot predict nor control the amount of warpage, often times these heads were damaged, not beyond repair, but beyond usefulness.
Hopefully it isn't like the engine I was gonna throw in my '72 till I could get the rebuild done.
Couldn't figure out why I was getting coolant in the oil pan (water coming out around the crankshaft isn't a pleasant feeling when you just spent a few hours lining stuff up and reconnecting headers) Thought the 4-bbl intake manifold I'd stuck on there wasn't sealing.
You'd be surprised how much coolant can get past a crack in the cylinder wall. Only took replacing the intake gasket twice and pulling the heads off twice to figure it out.