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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

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Old May 19, 2002 | 07:21 PM
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AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

Can anyone tell me whether this compressor will work on my 68 f250 w/ AC?
 
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Old May 24, 2002 | 08:36 AM
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AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

Yes and no. The case is the same as what you should have…except…there was a design change with the seal between the compressor and the Rotate/valve. The earlier models use a nylon ring while the later models used an o-ring design. Check to see what you have then make the purchase if they are both the same. Don’t know when they made the change but I do know there is a difference between my 67 Lincoln and 70 F350.

New compressors are only about $100 anyway. Used compressor $30 plus a new shaft seal $20. Buy the new one. The R12 will cost you more than the $100 new compressor would.

Regards
Steve

 
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Old Jun 1, 2002 | 01:09 AM
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AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

Wow, I am glad I posted. Otherwise, I would have bought an old vintage compressor and never thought about the issue of R134 vs. R12. If I buy a new compressor to handle R134 are there any other considerations I should keep in mind? Basically, will my other A/C equipment work with R134?

Thanks alot,
Scott:-)
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 10:52 PM
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AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

 
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Old Jun 4, 2002 | 11:15 PM
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AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

No takers?

 
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Old Jun 5, 2002 | 11:25 AM
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AC compressor #D2AZ-19703-B

The other components in your system should be fine with 134a. I used to have a 72 w/dealer air and I converted it to 134a. You will need new hoses, and probably an expansion valve. The valve is connected to the coil inside the truck and it converts high pressure liquid to a low pressure gas. I lost a couple of pounds of r12 because of that valve and got frustrated and converted it to 134. Just cheaper The old hoses, aside from being old, will not contain the 134. New hoses have another barrier that resists the new oil.

I also suggest that you pull both coils, condenser and evaporator, and flush them with denatured alcohol. This will remove any moisture along with any old compressor oil. Be sure to clean them well, as any contaminants in the system will destroy your new compressor. It is also essential that the valves on top of the compressor are new or in good shape, otherwise you will develop a leak there.

The dryer/accumulator will also need to be replaced as it always should whenever the system is opened for any excessive amount of time.

While not required, it is recommended that you find a vaccum pump and pull a vaccum on the system for around 30 mins to evacuate any additional moisture in the system.

I don't remember the exact volume of oil that the compressor holds, but I believe that the new ones (refurbished) are shipped without oil. An 8oz bottle of PAG oil (r12 or 134a) should run around 12$.

Sorry about the length, but a/c systems aren't the simplest things to get working correctly. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me directly or just post back here. I browse the board farily often.

Tyson
 
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