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im thinking about changing my tranny fluid and filter on my 97 f250 psd truck.the truck has 163,000 miles on it and i no its never been changed i have a buddy that works at a tranny shop and he tells me to not to do it. the tranny still seems to workl great! so im really looking for some input.also curiuos about some auto shops advertising trans flushes?
I can't help you out with this one, I have the manual tranny. But be patient and you'll get the info you want from someonw who has been there and done that.
Do not listen to your tranny shop buddy unless you really want to buy a new tranny. Drain the trans, torque converter (there's a small pipe plug on it) and cooler, flush the cooler with a cleaner. Change filter while pan is off (watch out for o-ring that belongs on cooler, it usually sticks inside tranny). Put pan back on, torquing pan bolts to 14ft-lb, plug t/c hole, add 8qt Mercon tranny fluid, 1-1/2 bottles red Lube Guard. Start truck, add 4 more qt's, run trans through the gears to circulate juice. Add enough fluid to fill to cold mark (should take another 3qt, 15 1/2qt total). I change my trans fluid & filter every 25,000 miles since I tow a lot. As for flushes, they don't remove the metallic trash that sticks to the magnet in the pan and they don't replace the filter. You might get away with flushing at every other change, but I wouldn't go much more than that.
Edit: LubeGuard & cooler flush can be found at a NAPA store.
Last edited by DaBigTow; May 6, 2006 at 11:36 AM.
Reason: More info
I did my automatic fluid change just recently, I was disappointed because I felt it became worse, my initial problem was just rough gear shifting esppeciallt from first to second gear, and occasional delay in first gear shifting when engine is cold, now after changing the fluid, shifting is much worst and having problem with reverse gear, it takes a while before it catches up. My truck is 93 ranger 2wd with A4LD tranny. I simply put down the pan, clean the pan and change the filter, without draining the torque converter( Ihave no idea where to locate the converter and the plug) Put it back and put about 3 qts of Dexron III Mercon fluid (I can not find a plain Mercon Fluid) Have i done somwthing wrong to make it worst, any idea from anybody with experience on this matter. Will it become better, once the fluid circulates. What does one do after fluid is change, will it be just running the engine warm and shifting gears in position or run the truck?Will appreciate any kind of suggestion..
The long running story about not changing ATF once it get alot of miles on it has been around for a long time.I believe the thinking is you get alot of crap built up in the valvebody and then, when the new,clean fluid goes in it breaks it loose and causes probs.I have some friends who had probs after a high mileage [over 100,000 miles] ATF change. My wife's Durango has 140,000 on the ATF-I'm not changing it now! Who knows????????
I am thinking of chnging the whole fluid amnt, u think it will help, any advice what to do to make it better, short of dumping the tranny or bringing it to the shop.
This is for Skidford, think twice before doing a fluid change in a high mileage transmission, especially if the transmission is still good, I did mine with 130,000 miles on it, and thenproblem became worst, I did it because a read a lot of threads which says that it will be ok, now I think otherwise. Unless, the problem is so bad that u think of changing the transmission then maybe u can do it as a last DIY remedy. Good Luck...
I have heard the same 'old wive's tale' about a trans. fluid change destroying a transmission. I really have mixed feelings about it. I'm not a big trans. fluid changer, usually only when it turns a too deep shade of red or smells burned. *neither of which my truck has experienced*
But it makes sense that good clean fluid is good for your trans. Someone with a better knowledge of transmissions needs to shed some more light on this subject...
I have a good knowledge of transmissions by my own admission!
It's ALWAYS better to put in new fluid. Old fluid wears out, even if it looks good. As the trans operates it is continually shearing the fluid, which breaks it down. The heating cycles oxidize the fluid, further breaking it down.
I don't believe that there ever was a trans that was destroyed due to a proper fluid change.
Often you will hear about someone that changed the fluid and the trans died. That does happen. When it does if you question the person further it usually comes out that they were having trans problems, the fluid was dark or burnt, so they changed it. The trans was already dying, new fluid couldn't save it, but it also didn't kill it. It would have died even if they left the old, destroyed fluid in it.
The old wives tale is actually true. The heat that turns the fluid brown and I have seen some actually black, causes extreme wear on clutch bands and discs. Then all that material gets distributed and also have seen torque convertor turbines come apart in extreme cases and when you change the filter and put new fluid (ATF has detergents in it) it loosens up some or all that material and finds a new hole to fill or bearing to settle in or valve body passage. Then the real problems show up. By then it is too late. I usually tell anyone who is not planning on keeping the vehicle not to change it. Lucas makes a Transfix additive if the trans isn't too far gone but that will only buy time.
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