I need serious help!!!
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From: western montana
Sounds like you need someone to diagnose it by elimination ie electrical, vacuum and fuel. A part like the distributor, carb, wires coil etc could be bad, big vacuum leak, etc . Do you create vacuum?
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I can feel the vaccum through the spark plug hole when i turn the motor over. All the parts on the motor worked fine before the rebuild, except the distirbutor. The reason for the overhaul was that i was trying to adjust timing and the distributor was stuck in its bore and i couldnt get it out and I ended up breaking it. I had to pull the motor just to get the rest of it out. I replaced it after the rebuild with one out of a 351m that was setting in my shop. The 351M did not run I think it was locked up but Im pretty sure the dist. is good. I guess ive never actually checked if it was getting spark but it does pop every now and then, I'll check for sure tomorow.
Posting Guru
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From: chicago burbs
OK. you've checked, checked, and rechecked the firing order on the cap and you know the correct numbering of the cylinders. have you checked to make sure you are going around the cap in the right direction? and there is a rotor under the cap? don't think i'm asking because i think you're dumb, these are easy mistakes to make and i've made them all.
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From: western montana
Don't feel bad- recently put a new performer intake and holley on a windsor- a guy compression tested motor for me said it was ok- after 2 carbs and alot of ^%$#^& (cussing) decided to test compression myself- realizing the other guy was not at all worthy - and found 3 cylinders down around 80. engine is apart on my garage floor - 3 pistons had rings that broke when piston was removed....wasted about 3 weeks of spare time.
It happens! had to be simple- hope you found it.
It happens! had to be simple- hope you found it.
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Well i changed the wires around today, and with high hopes i got in and started cranking. Nothing happend, it wasnt backfiring like it used to, in fact, it wasnt firing at all. I noticed some fuel on on the manifold surrounding the carb so I looked a little closer. As I turned the motor over I noticed that the crab was actually spitting the fuel/air mix OUT OF THE TOP! I beleive that there is no vaccuum in the manifold and it is actually making pressure and forcing the fule/air out instead of in. I knew switching th plug wires would be too easy. This must mean the timing chain is on wrong and the intake valve is opening whent the exhaust valve is supposed to be right?
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Motor works in reverse????
I am in a pretty unique situation. I just fiinished the rebuild on my 400 and tried to start it. It didnt fire at all, so I started checking things. Eventaully I noticed a problem with the carburetor while i was cranking it over. I noticed a mist of fuel coming out of the top of the carb. I got to looking and I cranked the motor with a screwdriver in the engine compartment and watched the crab. The fuel/air mix is actually being forced out of the motor instead of being sucked in by vacuum. I took a vacuum line off the manifold and tried to feel for vacuum but i couldnt tell if it was sucking or blowing. My thinking is that I put the timing chain on wrong and the intake valve is opening when the exhaust valve is supposed to open. The only problem with this theory is that I have already checked that when i put the dist. in I had to make sure it was on the right stroke and when I pulled the valve cover and watched it turn over everything was normal. Does anybody have any ideas on this subject? any help is greatly appreciated.
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sorry guys i posted this in the wrong forum, i thought i was in the performance/ general engine building forum. If somebody wants to move it go ahead.
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Posting Legend
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Threads moved and merged. The engine performance forum is not for engine specific questions. Please do not double post. Keep your questions together to avoid duplication.
It sounds like you need to have an experienced mechanic disassemble your engine and check to make sure everything is assembled correctly and then install it. Sometimes it is best to let the professionals handle things. A pro will know how to check bearing clearances and seal installation as well as valve train geometry. Try to find a mechanic with experience with old Ford engines.
It sounds like you need to have an experienced mechanic disassemble your engine and check to make sure everything is assembled correctly and then install it. Sometimes it is best to let the professionals handle things. A pro will know how to check bearing clearances and seal installation as well as valve train geometry. Try to find a mechanic with experience with old Ford engines.
Last edited by Torque1st; May 8, 2006 at 10:12 PM.
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took it apart today, the chain is wrong. i got mixed up with the 3 different keyays. what happend was i had the +4 keway on the crank and then i lined up the "0" makr with the cam sprocket. I didnt have it set to the "0" mark on the crank keyway. when installed, if the cam dowel is pointing straight down the crank key is pointing straight up right?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Roseburg, OR
It's a lot easier if you make sure you have the crank positioned so that the crank gear's alignment mark can be pointing absolutely straight up (I think that's usually top-dead center anyway). Once you get that, slip the crank gear part of the way on, slip the timing chain around that, and then slip the cam gear in the chain so that its alignment mark is pointing at the crank gear's alignment mark. It DOES matter if you're off on this, even by a tooth. They have to be dead-perfect.
Let's talk about this +4 business. Unless you figured that in to the cam specs you chose, you're going to probably want to set it at "0" (the much-reccomended "straight up" setting).
Good luck!
Let's talk about this +4 business. Unless you figured that in to the cam specs you chose, you're going to probably want to set it at "0" (the much-reccomended "straight up" setting).
Good luck!
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i got it changed around, right now im praying that i didnt bend the valves when it was wrong. The new proble is this: enigne cranks slow when ignition is on, it almost sounds like something is dragging. When i take the coil to dist. cap wire off and crank it cranks like normal. weather the ignition is on or off there is no fireing, i havent checked forspark yet but im pretty sure there is. this motor is out to get me
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Thats what i wanted to hear. I realized when i got home last night that now that i changed the cam timing that the distributor will be off now. Ill reset that and maybe it will be my lucky day. Although when I was cranking with the ignition on it never seemed like the motor was actually firing, i never heard it anyway. but i was hoping the timing being wrong would have something to do with it. thanks alot for the help