C-notch
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
C-notch
Im 15.Well i have a 1977 F-100 4x2. 300 I6 and 3 on the tree with 9" rear axle. Im gonna do an engine build for a 600 HP I6.(i dont want to hear any comments about the impossibility of this please) Anyway I know the 3 spd wont handle that power especially with the outragous torque it will make. Well my question is about the exterior. Im probably going to C-notch it and 'bag it. Does anybody have tips on C-notching? should i make a 4 link sus*****ion to do this? I will probably try to go for about 8" rear and 6" front drop on some SRT-10 22s if its possible. I dont know the exact dimensions of those rims. Anybody know of any other 22s with 5x5.5 bolt pattern? I will shave the entire exterior and the interior on the dash. Cowl fiberglass hood. I am crazy(I know) but these are my plans and please do not tell me to restore it instead. that is not in my plans in any way
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,465
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From: Calgary Canada
Sounds like a fun project! You are right, it's your truck and you can make it any way you want.
As for the transmission, I'd consider the good old C6. it was common in that era of truck, and it's quite nearly bulletproof.
I've got no expereince with c-notching, but hopfully someone will chime in.
As for the transmission, I'd consider the good old C6. it was common in that era of truck, and it's quite nearly bulletproof.
I've got no expereince with c-notching, but hopfully someone will chime in.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
thanks seventyseven250...i didnt have much support the last time i said i was lowering it...C6 is an automatic though isnt it? I cant remember...i like to shift it though...feels cool to be in control...woah that rhymed...anyhow i like the manual in my bros 88 ranger so i thought a 4 spd would be nice..any ideas?
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
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From: Northshore, MN
c notch on yer frame should be like any other truck that's been lowered. You'll probably have to box the frame, cut your original frame at angles to prevent cracking, and weld everything back in. 48-60 forum had a thread on this a few months ago, try a search. I see a problem with the box being in the way, so you'll have to mod the underside of the box to clear the notch. As for front, I'd look into getting some lowering springs. Don't cut the originals as this is unsafe.
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
torque1st...i already know my engine plans(but thanks anyhow) and havi my plans are to cut a square area outta the bed when i get one for it and put the frame right through the big area...i think im gonna use dream beams from DJM and air bags or whatever so when at a show i can drop it to the grass
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
boxing the frame will also increase the rigidity which gives slightly better handling as well...correct?
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I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
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From: Northshore, MN
not necessarily. The frame is engineered to flex. If it didn't, it would make for a harsh ride, and would work-harden the frame and crack over time. Boxing sections of the frame would probably be better. Try googling for some c-notch pix. There's a couple layed frame guys in this forum too, just can't remember their names. here's a pic from svoom in the 48-60 forum https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=67779&width=0
Last edited by havi; May 5, 2006 at 08:31 PM.
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From: Portland, OR
The machine shop I use is building a $20,000+ 292 chevy six with really the only GM part being the block so even though most people think you're nuts going with a six you're not the first person to do it. Can't help with the frame stuff. Lowering a truck never made sense to me. An auto would probably be a hell of alot easier to drive with a small cubic inch high horsepower engine in a 4000 pound truck. I'd say C-6. If you go manual, you're cheapest option would probably be a car toploader or T-10 if you can bolt it to a truck six. Since the thing probably won't have much for low end torque you'll probably be running pretty low gears to run a manual. if you want an overdrive the NV4500 is pretty much impossible to break with gas engine torque. Drove a 1 ton cummins truck on 36" boggers the other day that will melt the tires rolling at 35 mph in 5th with 3.54 gears. That's around 1200 ft/lbs. The NV4500 in it's got torque king shafts and it's held up for 50K miles so far.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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I run a top loader 4 spd. in my '78 F-100. It originally came out of a '65 Mustang. The only thing I had to change was the tailshaft housing to that of a '67 Fairlane and get a Hurst shifter. I too have a 300 6. It has been extensively modified to run two 4 bbls. I have to tell you that if it were anything more radical I wouldn't run it on the street. Good luck with the bagging project, it's something I would like to see done. So far I've lowered mine using DJM components.
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
Crane Gold Series rockers? thats what Col Flashman recommended for me but i need the clifford valve cover to clear them as well...intake make good power? could it withstand the pressure of nitrous oxide?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hemet ca.
c-notch
Not a lot of help, but check out my gallery and you'll see my c-notch it lowered my truck with the flip of the springs I had to move the shock perches a little. it's not to difficult. Make sure measurements on both sides are identical be a good welder you might want to get a certified welder for this job anytime your messing with the frame you want it done right boxing it in is the easy part but a good welder can do this with ease. If I remember correctly you can buy c-notch kits for your frame I just don't recall who has them. good luck
Robert
Robert