I have 76,xxxmi on my 2000 f250. I started using syn oil at 50k and it would use about one to one and a half quarts every 3000mi. Once I hit 71,500+- it now uses around one quart every 500mi. Took it in to the local ford dealer and they said there's not much I can do, and that many other v10s have this problem. He said new rings, new motor, or drive it like it is. It still runs and drives as good as ever. I have a friend with an 01 Excursion around 80,000mi who has the same problem.

Anyone else have this problem? I just bought an 01 F350 CC drw powerstroke and don't know if I want to keep the V10 F250 or trade it off.

 

Depending on what sync oil you are using, but I would check into the PVC. If the PVC is coated with oil, then you may not actually be burning oil...as your oil maybe evaporating off into the PVC. This has known to happen with these V10 (modular) engines.

Other folks might chime in as well...

Please keep us posted...

biz

_______________________________
2003 F250 SD SC 142" XLT FX4 V10 Auto 4x4 3.73s

 

as just said, check the pcv it could be stuck open or the oil drain back from the head sludged up causeing the pcv to suck in oil making you think it's the motor.
also at 50k i would not have changed to syntec's . they tend to loosen up sludge and may have caused the drains to become sludged up. check and see if oil is on top of the heads by pulling out the pcv when running to see if the oil is stuck up on the top end . then try going back to what you were using and see what happens.

 

Are you using the 5W20? I've heard of newer Ford engines having that exact problem at around 75,000 b/c they were using 10W30.

 

Don't some people argue you burn more synthetic than dino? Simplest approach would be to try dino for a change or two...

 

122000/syn....little to no burn (maybe 1/2 qt if I go over 3000mi change period)
The thing about synthetic is it does'nt smoke when you have a oil burning issue, so you cant see at the tail pipe.......
Maintain them from day one and they will treat you well.

 

I agree with BareBones. I'd dump it and try another oil for a while. I started using Mobil 1 back in the early 1990's in my 5.0 Mustang. It "used" a lot of oil during this period. My thoughts were that it was just the low-tensioned ring 302 at work. My 1995 Ford F150 was the same way. If you did not check the oil by 1500 miles, it would be down a quart. And it seemed to really start eating it once the oil change had over 2000 miles on it, more like a quart every 750 miles. Come to think of it, it used it just like the Mustang.

I switched my 2001 4.6 Mustang over to Mobil 1 and it started using oil. I went back to 5w-20 Motorcraft, now you can go 3500 miles without ever worrying about needing to add any. At this point I started to realize that maybe Mobil 1, the oil I swore by, was costing me a ton of money, and not really doing anything else.

For five years or so, I had also been using it in my equipment. I have a 26 EFI Kohler that used oil from what seemed like day one. I have 27 carbed Kohler that used very, very little if anything. The 27 had always been run on conventional oil. So for the heck of it, I put Mobil 1 in there and it became an oil user too. I switched it back, and it uses none.

 

The V10s don't like PAO synthetic oils and has been a problem with quite a few engines. I would suggest using Havoline in 5w-20. It will have around 480 ppms moly which is way more than most and about 60% content of Redline. Moly is a great boundary lube and works when things get really hot. It will hold up under load and heat as good as any synthetic but won't make it for extended oil changes. An OCI at 5000 miles is well within reach for your engine.

 

most be the mobil 1 as i use castrol syntec 5w30 in mine since 500 miles and use none between changes. As others have said go back to dyno or try a different brand of syntec.

 

That kind of adds up. Isn't Mobil is all Group IV PAO and Syntec Group III ? On a side note, I had no idea Havoline was packed with Moly.

 

got me.as i have never used any thing other then castrol in every thing i have owned.

 

I read a thread asking about oil types/weights a few months ago. Someone posted a link to a page that discussed the chemistry and science behind the full synthetic, Syn-blend, dino oil, and how they actually work.

One thing that kinda stuck with me, and I've even noticed in my vehicles was this... If you do city driving, odds are your engine isn't getting fully warmed up before you shut it down when you get where you're going. This adds small amounts of moisture to the oil that when run to normal operating temperature for a while, would've burned it off. But when you do take a highway trip where this excess is burned off, it makes your level look low... Its not that you've burned oil, Its just the excess moisture that has built up burning off.

Of course I'm just paraphrasing what they talked about, and might not have all the facts straight. If anyone has the linke, post it... It was a good read.

 

My 05 V10 is the very first engine that I have ever owned that does not use any oil when you work it hard. This experience covers 30 years of Ford engines, 5 gas engines and 3 PSDs. That is why I am sold on MC 5-20.

 

I went through some calculations, very theoretical, using numbers I got from Amsoil's web site for "volatility", the boiling off of certain solvents and other things that the manufacturer uses to modify the viscosity. Mobil 1 worked out to about a qt per 3000miles.

Of course, once this stuff boils off, whether or not your oil is still even close to the same specs as it was originally? Who knows.

My '01 V10, and '96/97 4.6L's never use ANY oil, using Castrol GTX 5w30 dino oil.

I've tried Castrol Syntec 5w30, and didn't like how it turned very dark very quickly. And, it felt more "waxy" (parafin?) after 3000 miles than plain dino. So, I went back to dino.

This last oil change (last week) on my V10 I went back to Castrol GTX dino but in 5w20. No increased noise in the V10 (stock original Motorcraft stuff, when I changed the oil to 5w30 it was MUCH quieter). AND, it seems to have cured the piston slap in the '97 4.6L

The V10 never used any oil, even Syntec, and the 4.6L's never did either.

 

Go back to dino and forget about it.

If you want brands - Castrol GTX for me. Don't use a drop. But I only have 111K on my engine, so it's just getting broke in...

BTW - I tried the synthetic oils - full and blends - and the engine did "use" it much more. Of course it didn't actually "use" it like the older engines...the oil just went away.