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77 Brake Problems... Front Disk Rear Drums

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Old May 4, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #16  
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yes that is what I am talking about. Got a picture?
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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It's coming
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Youd be the man. I took them apart yesterday and forgot how they go back together...
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 02:01 AM
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While wating on the pic I just tried to insert the metal spacer without the spring and I can't even get it in between the bottom of the caliper and the mounting bracket. It goes about half way and then gets jammed up...
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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Make sure you are not putting it in upside down or inside out. The half moon cut goes outside and to the keeper bolt. If you are putting it in the right way and it still doesn’t fit then the caliper isn’t in quite the right position. When everything is correct it should only take light taps with a small rubber mallet.

Originally Posted by hevnbnd
One new Rotor
With regards to brake jobs, I have made it a policy that whatever I do to one side, I do to the other. Some could call that overkill but........................
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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It does not matter if you only replace one rotor. Each pad will squeeze down onto whatever size the rotor is. It will NOT make it pull to one side if you only replace one rotor.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #22  
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Anti-Rattle Clip

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...rattleclip.jpg


Rotors : Actually it does matter .....if you have one rotor that is thinner and becomes hotter during breaking it make an obvious difference by not having equality between the 2 sides.

Drive safe...keep things right
 

Last edited by Mil1ion; May 5, 2006 at 02:43 PM.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 02:23 PM
  #23  
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Thats exactly what i was gonna type mil1on...when a thinner rotor gets hotter, the pads on that side will grab more and wear alot faster...it might even take awhile for the signs to show up, and the brakes will work fine, but it wont take long before your pulling to one side under hard braking....
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 02:26 PM
  #24  
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make sure the anti-rattle clips are put in the right direction as well. I put these in wrong on my calipers and they dragged on the rotors. This might be why one of yours was worn out too fast. If you look at the clip, it can go one of two ways. One way and it could hook the side of the caliper and make the pad drag on the rotor, the other way and it pushes the pad a little back away from the rotor. If you need pics I'll see what I can do.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #25  
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my old pads had NO rattle clips. They had some ruber gunk on them that someone might have put on them to quite them down....
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:04 PM
  #26  
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Ok New pads, calipers, mc, and rotors up front. Now for the test run just as soon as I get some gas.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #27  
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If my illustrations helped may I suggest purchasing a CDRom version of the Ford original shop manual from www.motorhaven.com

The shop manual is the Mechanics best friend.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #28  
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Don't forget... after you gravity bleed, pump your pedal very slowly to create nipple pressure. Pumping like crazy can produce foaming bubbles
 

Last edited by bremon140; May 5, 2006 at 11:47 PM.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:46 PM
  #29  
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I have a bleeder that I hook up to my compressior Makes it go alot easier. Thanks for all the help. All is good now. I drove the car and it does not pull to either side when I brake. Is there an easy way to make sure both disks are working properly?
 
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Old May 6, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #30  
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You can make sure the calipers aren't dragging by jacking up the front and spinning the tires. If the tires will spin free for a second or two after you spin them you're fine on that. Other than that as long as it's not pulling to either side you're fine.
 
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