The diagram I linked to in post #29 is wrong for you.

Here is your correct vacuum diagram.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/7_72_R11.JPG

 

Dennis-thanks for the vacuum diagram. You had to know this question was coming...half of the parts illustrated are not on my truck. I'm sure they were at some point, as most of the illustration and parts listed are either present, or I can tell they were at some point. The big question here is where should I hook up the vacuum advance for the distributor? Currently, its attached to the carb on a port that obviously has full time vacuum. The diagram shows it hooked up to a control assembly that SHOULD be attached to the thermostat housing. No such animal on my truck. If I hook it up to the manifold vacuum, I'll have the same issue I do now, right?

 

Correct.

You need a ported vacuum connection.

Do you have a pic of that carb for me to see ?

Or
I can post illustrations of carbs for you to pic from

 

Um I'm technologically challenged at the moment. (No digital camera) I believe it to be a stock Motorcraft 2150. Could be a 2100. Could be a flying pig for all I know. It's a two barrel, no id tag. Using info from other posters, I believe it to be a 351 cfm if that helps you id it any. (Thanks for the help...)

 

Is your state regulated by emission laws?

Does your truck have a catalytic converter? or is the exhaust flow restricted any where along the exhuast pipe? (kinked or bent?)

 

No emission laws. No catalytic. Exhaust flow seems fine. Debating pulling the egr off as well...

 

not to sound rude or anything, but did you even read my last post?? i answered the port question already....i know for a fact that it will run on either port and maintain a smooth idle, it will run BETTER on a ported vacuum, which is one ABOVE THE THROTTLE PLATE that only has vacuum when the throttle is opened...you need to adjust your timing....

 

OKC-Um...yes I read your last post. I read your first one too. I'm brand new here and also don't want to be rude, but if you're going to answer a question without reading it, you cannot get offended when I don't pay much attention. Lunge exists with or without high idle. As I mentioned at the gate, I turned the idle way up to avoid stalling when putting the truck in gear. The transmission seems to grab very hard (like its in a hurry to get somewhere...) and with a "normal" idle setting, the engine dies. Once more...I turned up the idle to avoid stalling. The lunge is not caused by high idle.
If you've got any ideas as to what is causing the lunge, I'd love to hear em.

As for carb ports...I have several ports above the throttle plate. Vacuum advance is currently installed on one that is above the throttle plate, but does have vacuum at idle. Seems to me from yours and other posts that it's not on the correct port. So I'm assuming that i'll end up going straight off of the manifold, or checking vacuum at every port on carb during idle and with the throttle open.

Looking at the schematic that Dennis posted for me, I can see that I'm missing several pieces of the vacuum control system. I don't have a vacuum amplifier or the thermal controls on the thermostat housing. I'm going to have to custom engineer it. That said, I'd like to put the advance on a ported vacuum.

Actually, this started over that lunge. I can put the idle back to normal in a few seconds and as long as the truck is in park or neutral, it runs fine. When I go into gear it dies unless I've got the idle jacked up.

 

Just my 2 cents here- I was also having idle problems,I went thru the whole vac. schematic set up,replaced base gaskets on carb,rebuilt carb. To make a long story short a mechanic buddy and I took a can of carb cleaner and sprayed everywhere but the carb horn. The truck would smooth out when spraying around the intake bolts on the drivers side. We pulled the manifold and for some reason two bolt passages were cracked,decided to get rid of the boat anchor and got a good deal from Matt in Billings on a Edelbrock mani and carb,replaced lifters while in there.The truck fired right up and other than a little tinkering with a/f ratios the truck ran smooth and accelerated great.I also took the time to remove all emissions related crap including the EGR valve.
Wish I could provide more precise help,but thought it might lend you some ideas.
John

 

If it's a 2150 2V, the ported vacuum source for the distributor is below the choke housing (passenger side). You might not be able to see the port, but you can feel for it. It should route from there to the PVS on the thermostat housing, but since you don't have one, run it directly to the distributor.

You'll probably need to adjust the idle speed after changing the VA routing.

The harsh shifting into 1st gear might be from a bad vacuum modulator on the transmission, or a misadjusted 'kickdown' linkage.

 

Thanks. Modulator has vacuum and is not leaking fluid. Past that, how do I know if it's good? The truck shifts fine.

 

I really hope it isn't a TQ problem but it may be

I found this to maybe help.

CONDITION
Engine stalls when transmission is put into gear.

Possible Cause
1) Incorrect choke pull-off adjustment.

2) Fast idle RPM incorrect (too slow)

3) Engine running too lean because of vacuum leak or dirty jet.


Correction

1) Readjust the pull-off or replace if necessary.

2) Speed up the fast idle to factory specs.

3) Check for vacuum leak. Flow test carb to check jetting.

 

It always better to do prechecks to eliminate other possible problems which will eliminate problems mentioned.

If every thing checks out.
be trial of elimination, then you have eliminated all prechecks.
As another precheck, Call the transmission shops, and see if a quality transmission shop can give you their free opinion and have them check the torque converter.

keep us posted of what was found to be the problem.

 

Got your PM,

That carb looks like the 2100 with parts from a 2150 put on it.



For ported vacuum, in pic #1 right behind the stud on the left hand side is the ported vacuum outlet.

From there is gets T'd with one hose to the vacuum amplifier and 2nd hose hose running to the heated vacccum switch on the thermostat housing.

I have the actual "Hose Routing" location illustation in my possession now if you need it.

 

Yes please. Sure would help.