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Torque converter alignment, why & how

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Old May 2, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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Torque converter alignment, why & how

Right now I'm replacing the 5r55e in my 97 explorer with a replacement from the breakers yard. I hope to replace the converter, trans & t-case as removed from the donor car in 1 piece. The problem I have is that the Haynes manual says you should mark 1 of the 4 torque converter to driveplate studs with paint to ensure correct alignment on reassEmbly. But I'm putting a different t/c in. Does alignment really matter? If so how do I go about it with a t/c that came from another vehicle?
thanks.
 
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Old May 2, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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From: St Louis
That instruction only applies if you're reinstalling the same TC.

Ignore it.

Steve
 
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Old May 3, 2006 | 12:10 PM
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Thanks Steve.

Just for kicks, anybody know why it says to do this when it doesn't seem to matter?
I'm curious.....
 
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Old May 3, 2006 | 04:32 PM
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it's a balancing act. Everything needs to stay the way it was before, if not you could get some bad vibe's
 
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Old May 3, 2006 | 09:43 PM
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From: lino lakes, mn
look at the studs on the torque converter are they symetrical(evenly spaced)or is one closer to the other? some times they will only bolt up one way. If you don't want to chance it, when you have tranny out unbolt the flexplate(flywheel) and fit it to your converter then mark it reinstall it then line up your converter to the mark because once
you get the tranny up you may not be able to spin the converter another thing make sure the converter is seat in the front pump all the way before you try to bolt it up failure to do this usually ends in a broken bell housing
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by allan1010
Thanks Steve.

Just for kicks, anybody know why it says to do this when it doesn't seem to matter?
I'm curious.....
Because the Haynes writers are assuming that

1) You're reinstalling the same TC

and

2) That it was balanced the first time (HA!).

The factory service manual has the same instruction.

Steve
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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The biggest reason for that is, you have to make sure you seat the torque converter COMPLETElY into the transmission. Even though it might look like its back all the way, you need to rotate it untill it goes back another 1/4-1/2". Or else it will be very hard to install new tranny, and when you go to run it and the torque converter goes into the final notch, it will likely break the pump and tear the tranny apart.
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 05:07 PM
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OK, thanks for all the input, guys.
The trans is back in as I write this (but no fluid as yet, I'm waiting on a new tranny filter coming tomorrow).
Before I do ANYTHING more I'll check again thru the starter hole to make sure everything is tight and seated properly.
I was expecting to have it running tonight but was called away by my trucking co. being burglarized. Luckily I caught the bas***ds (second time in less than a year I've had to do the cops' job for them!) and apart from a few broken windows no real harm done but they were ready to strip head units and CD changers out of the trucks, some were laid out already on the sleeper berth with wiring harnesses intact..this was no rip-out job.
Anyway, being sidetracked by all that COULD have done me a huge favor if I find anything amiss when I check the t/c is seated right!
 
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