Light Switch and short
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Light Switch and short
Ok I have a couple of questions
question 1 what do you have to do to get the **** off a 1973 light switch so I can get behind the instrument cluster.
question 2 I've unplugged the wires that go to the heater because I was blowing fuses I thought that would fix the problem but I am still blowing fuses only the heater fuse. The minute I flip the switch it blows the heater fuse, what is going on here.
Question 3 There are three wires that come from the wiring harness on a 1973 f350 that are grouped together one of them goes to the coil the other two go to the oil sending unit and the temperature sending unit. The two wires that go to the oil sending unit and the temperature sending unit should pulse it you test them with a test light but they don't they are completely dead. The guages in the instrument cluster both oil pressure and tempeature do not work. Another weird thing if I turn the key onto the ignition but dont start the truck it heats the coil up real bad without the truck even running, as long as the truck is running the coil doesn't heat up.
question 1 what do you have to do to get the **** off a 1973 light switch so I can get behind the instrument cluster.
question 2 I've unplugged the wires that go to the heater because I was blowing fuses I thought that would fix the problem but I am still blowing fuses only the heater fuse. The minute I flip the switch it blows the heater fuse, what is going on here.
Question 3 There are three wires that come from the wiring harness on a 1973 f350 that are grouped together one of them goes to the coil the other two go to the oil sending unit and the temperature sending unit. The two wires that go to the oil sending unit and the temperature sending unit should pulse it you test them with a test light but they don't they are completely dead. The guages in the instrument cluster both oil pressure and tempeature do not work. Another weird thing if I turn the key onto the ignition but dont start the truck it heats the coil up real bad without the truck even running, as long as the truck is running the coil doesn't heat up.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
Welcome to the forums 
1) You have to reach up under the dash to the switch and find a little button that you have to push to release the ****.
2) You could have a shorted switch. You need an ohm meter to check all of the wires to ground.
3) Does the gas gauge work? I would suspect a bad instrument panel voltage regulator if the gas gauge doesn't work either. You could check the main plug on the back of the instument panel to make sure it is plugged in good and no wires are cut.
1) You have to reach up under the dash to the switch and find a little button that you have to push to release the ****.
2) You could have a shorted switch. You need an ohm meter to check all of the wires to ground.
3) Does the gas gauge work? I would suspect a bad instrument panel voltage regulator if the gas gauge doesn't work either. You could check the main plug on the back of the instument panel to make sure it is plugged in good and no wires are cut.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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1) you have to make sure the battery is dsconnected first.
The procedure is..pull the headlight switch shaft all the way out ..then reach up to the top of the switch and depress the button and pull the shaft the rest of the way out.
It has to be done this way for it to slide out smoothly.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...ightswitch.JPG
2) Possible shorted out resistor that is attached to the heater plenum.
3) The problem is the ICVR (Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator).
It attachs to the back of the cluster like a 9 volt battery.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...lusterBack.JPG
The procedure is..pull the headlight switch shaft all the way out ..then reach up to the top of the switch and depress the button and pull the shaft the rest of the way out.
It has to be done this way for it to slide out smoothly.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...ightswitch.JPG
2) Possible shorted out resistor that is attached to the heater plenum.
3) The problem is the ICVR (Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator).
It attachs to the back of the cluster like a 9 volt battery.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...lusterBack.JPG
Last edited by Mil1ion; May 1, 2006 at 01:38 AM.
