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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

same codes as before plus one new one

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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:41 PM
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same codes as before plus one new one

89 F150 302 A0D 2WD

KOEO:
81 Air Managmenr 2 Circuit Malfunction
82 Air Managmenr 1 Circuit Malfunction

KOER:
12 Cannot Control RPM During Self-Test High RPM Check
41 HO2S (sensor) System Lean Right Side
13 Cannot Control RPM During Self-Test Low RPM Check
25 Dyn Response Test Knock Sensor Not Detected

the truck does not stay running anymore. it starts right up after it's sat for a while. still idles high as hell and when the temp gauge gets to around 180 degrees (it has an aftermarket A-Pillar temp gauge) the motor starts to stumble and finally dies. then it's hard to start back up afterwards and even if it does start again it will die.

i flushed out the cooling system cuz the upper rad hose was really hot and stiff yet the bottom hose was only slightly warm. i thougth there might be a clog somewhere. but i blasted a hose through the system until it all came out clear. flow is verified through the radiator as i flushed it from both directions along with the block. i did not replace the t-stat.

after i did this the truck still died.

i checked all of the vacuum lines on the motor and there isn't anything that leaks; EXCEPT the EGR solenoid. i tested the whole EGR vac system plugging the vac pump at the vac source and pumped the air out. i heard hissing noises coming from the solenoid. this was with the motor off and everything off. i tested the line going to the solenoid and it's fine. i tested the line going from the solenoid to the EGR valve and it's fine. the egr valve also hold vac. do i need a new solenoid?

and what's up with those codes? what do i check for to fix them? :confused
 
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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bumpage.....
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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ok, fixed the lean running condition. i have dual fuel tanks and the rear one was on empty. dropped 5 gallons of gas and it doesn't stall out or die anymore. but it still idles high.

please don't recommend a new IAC. i've popped one in and it didn't work. there goes 60 bucks. i sprayed the TB and upper intake manifold mating flanges and the idle started to fluxuate. i sprayed a bunch more and the motor was about to die.

yippee, wish me luck on a new TB gasket. what's that around 5 bucks? this things been kicking my *** for the last couple monthes and it might only be a bad TB gasket.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 08:43 PM
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ok, so replacing the TB gasket did nothing. the old one was pretty messed up. i'm gonna have to start tearing apart the intake manifold now. this is getting ridiculous.

plus it's extremely difficult to use brake cleaner when the truck has a solid mounted fan. all the brake cleaner i spray at the joints and connections BLOW AWAY or dry up before it even makes the motor stumble. even more so when the truck is up to temp and it blows HOT AIR IN MY FACE.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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Angry Your Code '41

what was the cause for your code 41? I have it as well on my truck as well as a code 44.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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the cause for my lean running condition (code 41) was that my rear fuel tank was running on empty. i have dual fuel tanks on the truck. i put some gas into the rear tank and no code 41 anymore.

code 44 is nothing really important. my truck has this code off and on. it's the thermactor AIR system code. my truck doesn't have the thermactor air pump anymore. it's an emissions system code. supposed to pump air through the cat or something to improve exhust emissions.....
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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I also had a chev lumina for a beater that would barely run and the idle would be all over the place. I traced it to be bad intake manifold gaskets, the old ones dried up and cracked causing huge vacuum leaks. a guy I know told me to use a propane torch and run it along the base of the intake to see if the idle would increase with the propane gas being around the intake (after I already found the problem his suggestion came).
 
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Old May 6, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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ok so i looked over the truck today and i still haven't found it.

i did notice that between the intake runners of 6 and 7 there is a tapped hole on the lower intake manifold (driver's side). there is nothing that is bolted into this hole. there are 2 floating connectors nearby that isn't plugged into anything also.

is this where the knock sensor is supposed to be hooked up at? would this explain the no knock sensor detected code? and does this hole lead all the way through into the air intake?
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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i notice a 1 inch spacer bolted in between the upper and lower intake manifold. the FSM does not show a spacer in between these manifolds. is this supposed to be there?
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:47 PM
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would a loose valve cover contribute to a vacuum leak through the PCV valve? one or both of them have their bolts loose.

also the bolt closest to the TB housing that holds down the lower intake mani broke off. i tried extracting it but the stupid extractor broke off into it so now i can't drill into it. what to do?
 

Last edited by bluneon; May 7, 2006 at 03:53 PM.
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