Adjusting Timing
How do you adjust the timing on a 300ci engine? This is my first Ford truck. I am used to VW air-cooled technology and design. On an old VW you adjusted the timing by loosing a screw on the distributor and rotating the distributor to get the desired engine advance. I have read through both the Chiltons and the Haynes manuals and both seem to say the timing is not adjustable. I have done all of the other tune-up steps and am still getting in the 12-mpg range. I know it is running rich as I can smell it!
I will try swapping out the 02 sensor if you all think that could be a possibility.
I would like to see a little better mileage as gas prices soar.
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Thanks.
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The_mahout
Central KY - Bluegrass Country
'86 F-150 (non-FI) with a 4-speed manual transmission

The books say the timing is not adjustable. What they're referring to is the timing advance. Which is not adjustable. You can adjust the base timing. You need an inductive timing light.
Here's what you do:
Start the engine and warm it up. Shut it off, and hook up the light. Then remove the spout connector - it's a little grey plug in the wiring near the distributor. It disables the computer-controlled advance.
Use the timing marks on the passenger side. The ones on the driver's side are there to confuse you. No, really.
Move the distributor around until you get the timing you want - usually 10 BTDC. Shut it down, put the spout back on and you're done.
2, disconnect the (spout) located near your dizzy single black wire
3,connect a timing light (caution) careful the wires don’t hang loose near the cooling fan or belts
4, locate the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley passenger side of vehicle, clean if necessary for ease of identification.
5, start engine
6, point the light towards the timing mark (10o BTDC) seems to work best check the emissions control label located in the engine compartment to be sure
7, if the pulley mark isn’t aligned with the correct mark on the scale loosen the dizzy retaining bolt and turn clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust.
P.S. do not be fooled by the marks on the timing gear cover on the drivers side, these are not the timing marks.
Hope this helps,
Don
oops andym beat me to the post
I did my O2 sensor first and it made no difference at all, so try the timing it's free!
I have a 93 4x4 F150 with the 300. I only get 10 or 11 in town. I'm not in the flat lands. There are lots of stop lights and everything is up and down. On long freeway trips, I get 15 to 16 at 75mph. Before I only got 12 on the freeway.
Great info. Thanks for all the input.
I am having trouble finding the timing marks on the passenger side. Anyone have a picture that they could post or p-mail me so I know what I am looking for and where to look. I hooked up the timing light but am getting no flash from anything on the passenger side of the engine...
Thanks.
Mike in Central KY
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But aren't you supposed to use the marks on the driver's side of the timing cover?
Last edited by nsshirai; May 3, 2006 at 10:23 PM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
stractor
chris
The marks on the drivers side are there to distract you. Figures the wrong ones are easier to see!!!
Reference "The timing mark is a thin scribed line on the vibration damper /pulley and the correct setting is 10 degrees advanced. The timing plate as the previous post said is a saw toothed looking plate, with one of the "v" notches larger than the rest, this is 10 degrees"
I have found the saw-toothed plate and cleaned it up. On the '86 all of the "v" nothches are the same size but there appears to be numbers "10", "6", and "2" on the plate with "10" being in the center of the plate. I am going to assume that that is spot to mark for 10 BTDC with a drop of white-out.
I am still looking for the "timing mark/thin scribed line" on the pulley. Please forgive this most basic question.... What is the best way to rotate this engine to be able to find the mark on the pulley???
Thanks.
Mike in KY
Mine (a 90 ) has a larger notch for 10 degrees. The damper mark is best found from underneath,(try not to run yourself over in the process) its just easier to get at the damper and clean it off really well while under there. If there is a scribe like it is not easily seen if covered with paint and or dirt/grease. Some say they couldn't find a line, there has to be some kind of mark and NO it isn't the large square notch if you have one on the damper, if you don't have a large notch forget I even said anything about one.
stractor
Last edited by stractor; May 7, 2006 at 01:32 AM.








