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Brakes pull to the right under moderate to heavy braking. The harder I brake, the harder they pull. It pulls the steering wheel, so it is very likely to be coming from the front. It does not pull under light braking.
Problem started before I started doing work on the truck. I have replacing pads, rotors, all balljoints, both radius arm bushings, and axle pivot bushings. Old pads on passenger side had uneven wear. The pad pushed by the piston wore unevenly, as if one piston was doing all the work, so I took a chance and replaced that caliper. I also replaced the brake line on that side because I thought I may have kinked it accidently when repacing the balljoints on that side. Before investing in replacing caliper and brake hose on the drivers side, I want to see if anyone else has run into this problem. I may just replace them, but I prefer to not throw money at replacing parts at this point.
I swapped tires from another Ranger to make sure the pull is not due to tires.
I wonder if maybe your problem is really on the driver side. Possible lack of hydraulic pressure at that caliper or maybe a bad caliper. I hate to throw money at these kinds of problems too, but usually I replace hoses and calipers by the axle.
Had the same thing on my truck....was using A-Zone pads at the time.Like you,I changed everything one piece at a time......still pulled the wheel out your hands...very frusturating! Here's how I figured it out...swap the pads you have now side to side.......if the pull goes away while the brakes are cool.....but returns after hot....change brands of pads........I quit buying pads from A-Zone.....get Bendix or Wagner or Raybestos...no private label stuff ! After that episode, it's been a year and a half...still no problems.
Phillip
Had the same thing on my truck....was using A-Zone pads at the time.Like you,I changed everything one piece at a time......still pulled the wheel out your hands...very frusturating! Here's how I figured it out...swap the pads you have now side to side.......if the pull goes away while the brakes are cool.....but returns after hot....change brands of pads........I quit buying pads from A-Zone.....get Bendix or Wagner or Raybestos...no private label stuff ! After that episode, it's been a year and a half...still no problems.
Phillip
I'm having the same issue and they aren't new pads. It just started pulling to the left with sudden application of brakes. The faster the application the quicker the pull. ON wet pavement I believe it would spin out. I have replaced the right caliper (same logic from above with stuck caliper) No effect. All pins on both sides were cleaned and lubed. Pads have 25,000 miles on them but not changed, as it didn't pull when new but just started. I have both front brake hoses to install Monday after the weather clears. Thinking defective inside of hose on right side preventing pressure to the caliper. One thing I did notice while bleeding the brakes. The left side that pulls when I open a bleeder to let fluid/air out squirts to the fender lining, The right side only squirts about 6" out. So I am thinking flex line failure. Monday I will know for sure. 7.3 4WD. Lets keep in touch on this issue. I have had to park the truck until this problem is solved. Jim
It does seem strange about the right side bleeding issue........When I experienced my pull problem...those pads were about 2 years old......lots of material left.......just started the pulling in what appeared to be overnight ?
Phillip
It does seem strange about the right side bleeding issue........When I experienced my pull problem...those pads were about 2 years old......lots of material left.......just started the pulling in what appeared to be overnight ?
Phillip
That's exactly the way mine started. Driving ok,, then bam,, pull to left and getting worse. If the hoses don't fix it (calipers are completed) I will pull pads for new ones. Jim
ok,, new hoses and it is better? doesn't pull as hard to left,, now more of a drift left. I am wondering if the right pads doing less work have something on them. If it doesn't clear in a few days,, I will throw $$ at it with new pads and the entire front brake system will be new.
Next, check the rear brakes. Rear brakes can cause the entire chassis to exert lateral forces which appear to be front brake problems, just like oars on a boat. Next check the integrity of the ball joints, steering joints and tie rod ends. When the resistance is applied by the brakes, the geometry can change if there is play at any point, even if vehicle tracking is straight during regular driving.
Next, check the rear brakes. Rear brakes can cause the entire chassis to exert lateral forces which appear to be front brake problems, just like oars on a boat. Next check the integrity of the ball joints, steering joints and tie rod ends. When the resistance is applied by the brakes, the geometry can change if there is play at any point, even if vehicle tracking is straight during regular driving.
Thanks you are so right. I did repace both calipers, pads and rotors with new brake hoses on the front. With 60 psi all 4 tires it now stops straight,, whew . Finally.
The only thing I can think of was something I could not see on the brake pads. The new Wagner Ceramic pads are working well and stopping straight. Jim
I just bought a 2001 F250 CC 7.3 and drove it home about 45 miles. Pulled in the driveway dropped my wife off and then at the next stop sign it pulled to the left. Unfortunately it has 143,000 miles and there is no warranty. Looks like I get to do brake work right away. Sad part is the pads still have lots of life left.
I still like this truck alot better than the 2001 F150 supercrew I traded in. Although the Supercrew was a very good truck for me. Put on 71,000 miles and replaced brake pads in front and rear once, rear u-joint, and 1 set of tires. Otherwise it was just the normal oil and air filter changes.
Just found this board tonight and looks like it is full of great information. Looking forward to putting some goodies on the truck as the pocketbook allows.