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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Steering Gremlins

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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
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AaronW
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Steering Gremlins

69 F250 2wd with power steering out of a 72 F100. The steering is tight (a lot tighter than all the other ps Fords I have owned). I mean tight as in lots of resistance to turn. I do have a GT Grant steering wheel on it. At times the ps will surge, or seem to disappear, usually at lower rpms. Sometimes it will seem as if the steering bottoms out, when I know it hasn't turned enough to reach its max. Is my pump going bad, is the gear box toast? This is the third pump I have gotten from Autozone, lifetime warrantied but they don't seem to last very long, however I have never had one act like this. I didn't think the F100s and F250s had different power steering components, but it almost seems like the truck over powers the power steering.
Thanks
AW
 
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 12:53 PM
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Steering Gremlins

Oh I forgot, I have been changing out the fluid (Type F) about once a month because it starts to turn black.
AW
 
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 04:46 PM
  #3  
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Steering Gremlins

It sounds like your system is totally contaminated with abrasive metal particles. You need a new pump, steering gear assembly, and a FILTER! All to be replaced at the same time. The black fluid is burnt fluid from internal leakage in the system.

Whenever maintenance is performed or a component replaced in the power steering system it is MANDATORY that you install an inline filter. If you don't, ALL the rest of the components and the new one will fail due to contaminant particles in the fluid.

I am surprised that they are replacing the pump under warrany for you. Most replacement pumps come with a notice about the filter requirement. Ford requires an inline filter installation in their service proceedures whenever the system is opened or repaired.

In your system the damage is done and ALL of the components MUST be replaced at the SAME time. If you run a damaged component with a new one the contamination will ruin the new one very, very, quickly (essentially, for all practical purposes, almost instantly). This is one of those times that are like my sig: over!

Flush your lines well with solvent, and consider replacing them also. When you get the system put back together with a filter in it change the filter again after about a week of operation, it is cheap insurance. With hydraulic system absolute cleanliness is mandatory. The particles that are doing the damage are far to small to be seen by the eye. If you see a particle you have REAL problems!





 
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 06:16 PM
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Steering Gremlins

Seeing as that would cost upwards of the total cost I paid for my truck, I don't plan on doing that anytime soon, but just for future reference, what kind of filter to use?
AW
 
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 09:01 PM
  #5  
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Mike W
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From: Central Kali
Steering Gremlins

I would check the sector adjustment (the screw and locknut on top of the box). Follow the procedure in the shop manual, you have to disconnect the steering linkage to do it right. It is easy to get it too tight. I made a minor adjustment one time by feel; and when I later did it by the manual, found that I had it way too tight.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 12:01 AM
  #6  
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Steering Gremlins

How little did you pay for the truck? A rebuilt steering unit for my 78 is less than $200 and used pumps can be had for $20 unless you can wrangle another warranty pump:-)

The filter # is posted in a thread in the Garage and Workshop Forum. The inline transmission/PS filter is Wix #58964 and run about $16 each. You will need several to attempt to clean your system. From your description of the PS operation your pump is gone already.

I wish you luck...






 
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 06:10 PM
  #7  
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Steering Gremlins

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Aug-02 AT 07:12 PM (EST)]>I would check the sector adjustment (the screw and locknut
>on top of the box). Follow the procedure in the shop manual,
>you have to disconnect the steering linkage to do it right.
>It is easy to get it too tight. I made a minor adjustment
>one time by feel; and when I later did it by the manual,
>found that I had it way too tight.


Mike,
I'm having the same problem he's describing. I have a 1971 F100 I just converted to PS from a 1970 F250. I don't know if I believe that the entire system is wacked like Torque1st says, but I would like to know about the sector adjustment beacuse my wheel seems really hard to turn for a power steering truck. I clicked on your link but it just sent me to the home page-how do I find the shop manual procedure you recommend?

Aaron,
Have you found anything else out that might help me to?

Also - what do you do when the wheel won't self-center? I have to turn it back straight after every turn! It's still better than manual steering but for cryin' out loud!

Thanks guys,

Tim
 
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 06:52 PM
  #8  
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Steering Gremlins

Tim, If your power steering fluid is black and you have replaced the pump a couple of times like Aaron has, -your entire system is gone. You are going to have to either replace or rebuild all of the components. If you rebuild, do you know what to look for? 95% or better of the people out there do not know what to look for when rebuilding hydraulic components. It takes years of experience to tell. The abrasive particles wear all of the flow paths and critical edges, surfaces, and orifices. Your truck steering is a critical safety item. Replace the failed part, and either have a skilled professional rebuild your other parts or replace them with rebuilt units. Your life and those of others sharing the road with you are on the line here.

The sector adjustment has to be done by the book or a disaster can happen. Take it to a professional if you don't have the tools and experience, for safety's sake. If you take the box off yourself and bring it to a shop it will cost you le$$.

Remember the filter! Think SAFETY!





 
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 09:58 PM
  #9  
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Mike W
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From: Central Kali
Steering Gremlins

Adjusting mesh load:

(1) Disconnect Pitman arm.

(2) Disconnect return line at the reservoir, cap off the reservoir return line pipe.

(3) Put return line in a clean container, cycle the steering wheel in both directions to discharge the fluid from the gear box.

(4) Turn the steering wheel to 45 degrees from the left stop. Using an in-lb torque wrench on the steering wheel nut, determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly through an approximately 1/8 turn from the 45 degree position.

(5) Turn steering gear back to center, then determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position.

(6) If necessary, loosen the adjuster nut, and turn the adjuster screw until the reading is 11-12 in-lb greater than the the torque 45 degrees from the stop.

(7) Tighten the lock nut while holding the screw in place. Recheck the readings. Put the return line back on and refill the reservoir.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2002 | 10:13 PM
  #10  
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From: Central Kali
Steering Gremlins

Hi Tim, My steering wheel also will not come back to center on it's own. I started a post one time to get some comparisons. It may be that there is not enough caster designed in these trucks. My steering is not tight, I just gently return the wheel to center after going around a corner.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2002 | 11:52 AM
  #11  
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From: Wichita USA
Steering Gremlins

>Tim, If your power steering fluid is black and you have
>replaced the pump a couple of times like Aaron has, -your
>entire system is gone. You are going to have to either
>replace or rebuild all of the components. If you rebuild, do
>you know what to look for? 95% or better of the people out
>there do not know what to look for when rebuilding hydraulic
>components. It takes years of experience to tell. The
>abrasive particles wear all of the flow paths and critical
>edges, surfaces, and orifices. Your truck steering is a
>critical safety item. Replace the failed part, and either
>have a skilled professional rebuild your other parts or
>replace them with rebuilt units. Your life and those of
>others sharing the road with you are on the line here.
>
>The sector adjustment has to be done by the book or a
>disaster can happen. Take it to a professional if you don't
>have the tools and experience, for safety's sake. If you
>take the box off yourself and bring it to a shop it will
>cost you le$$.
>
>Remember the filter! Think SAFETY!
>
>-Eric, Torque1st,
>[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTE Moderator]
>Fix it right the first time! It's easier than doing it over!
>
>Then- Drive 'em forever!
> [link: motorhaven.autoanything.com|How YOU can support this site!]

Eric,
My PS conversion came off a 1970 F250--all the original parts with supposedly around 75,000 miles. The fluid was still reddidh color--not black. I think I'm OK in that I was careful to keep efverything clean during installation. I also used new steering lines/hoses. I appreciate your concern and advice...it would be great if everyone was as conscientious as youself!

I'll investigate the sector adjustment a little more and get it right--my brother's an ASE certified mechanic and I'm sure he can "steer" me in the right direction!

Thanks,
Tim

 
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Old Aug 4, 2002 | 08:09 PM
  #12  
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Torque1st
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Steering Gremlins

Tim-

You are probably OK then. Just as a precaution install the filter in your return line. Watch for the "burned" fluid smell and color changes. The fluid bypassing back from the outlet to the inlet of a worn pump gets very very hot and "burns". If you notice the color or smell replace the pump immediately and either clean the steering gears or get a rebuilt, -and replace the filter :-)

The pressure in your hydraulic system is an indicator of how worn the steering gear mechanism is and secondary, the condition of the pump. A PS pump only produces fluid flow or volume, not pressure. The load and restrictions in the system produces the (back) pressure. In a "tight" new system the pressure will be high. When the steering gear edges, orifices, and internal seals wear the "back" pressure drops. Since this fluid is just passing thru the system it doesn't "burn" at that point. It is in the pump where fluid leaks from the high pressure side back to the inlet and back again that fluid gets hot enough to change chemically (burns).






 
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Old Aug 4, 2002 | 09:00 PM
  #13  
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tim71ford
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From: Wichita USA
Steering Gremlins

Do you guys think if I get a gearbox rebuild kit ($31 from O'Reilly) and rebuild the box will my self-centering problem go away? Like I said, it's still better than manual steering but if would be nice not to have to steer it back to center. Other than rebuilding the gear box I can't think of what else to do. When I had manual steering the truck returned to center perfectly, so I don't think it has anything to do with alignment, caster, camber etc...

Thanks guys!
Tim
 
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Old Aug 4, 2002 | 10:39 PM
  #14  
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Steering Gremlins

If you and your brother have the skill and experience to rebuild the box go ahead. The same adjustments will have to be made when the box is rebuilt. Does the kit have new bushings in it? Some rebuilds have a needle bearing upgrade performed on the output shaft.

Had the "donor" truck ever been in an accident? The steering box sector shaft is usually bent in accidents and the insurance companies will not replace the box unless the owner knows enough to demand it, they just have the steering wheel repositioned. If your sector shaft has been twisted it will need to be replaced.






 
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Old Aug 5, 2002 | 07:13 AM
  #15  
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tim71ford
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From: Wichita USA
Steering Gremlins

Eric,
I don't think the truck was ever in an accident. Everything bolted right up with no problems at all. The truck drives fine for now but I'll probably do the rebuild when time permits. I may give you a shout then if we have any questions. THanks for the help man!
Tim
 
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