Won't idle
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I'll check out the fuel pump relay, I already checked the FPR and the vacuum line was free of gas, I had replaced this about a year ago. Could the FPR still be bad and not have fuel in the vac line? Why else would the fuel pump continue to run (after confirming the FP relay is ok)?? I did get it started this afternoon, after all the parts replacing thought I'd just give it try, fired right off but still runs rough, will not idle, check engine light still on, still cannot read codes and fuel pump still runs continuously. Seems it will start after awhile as air temp warms up. Getting ridiculous.
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Sounds to me that if the codes can't be pulled and the check engine light is on, it may be the computer. If they take a dump, sometimes a code reader can't pull codes. Never had this on a Ford but have seen it on GM junk.
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Geez hope it's not the computer, but this is getting to be a pain. The latest: replaced fuel pump relay, pump still runs continuously with KOEO. Won't start this morning, seems like it will start after day warms up a little. Suspecting the FPR but it does not have the classic wet vacuum line symtoms, plus this has been replaced a year or so ago - doesn't mean it's still good I know. BUT it's an expensive part to replace randomly. Fuel pressure is 40 psi, is there anything else that could cause the fuel pump to run continously when pressure is built up to specs?? Could the TFI module have anything to do with this? Getting desperate.
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
If your reader is connected properly and the batteries are new/good and you can't get codes, there has to be a problem between the computer and the connector(s). With all of this other stuff, though, I'm inclined to believe that your computer has issues or bad connections or something. You may want to check all of your wiring as well as your throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, map sensor, engine temp sensor, air temp sensor, etc. The odd thing is, is even if one or more of the sensors were bad, you should still be able to get the codes and determine the fault.
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Originally Posted by kernel-panic
If your reader is connected properly and the batteries are new/good and you can't get codes, there has to be a problem between the computer and the connector(s). With all of this other stuff, though, I'm inclined to believe that your computer has issues or bad connections or something. You may want to check all of your wiring as well as your throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, map sensor, engine temp sensor, air temp sensor, etc. The odd thing is, is even if one or more of the sensors were bad, you should still be able to get the codes and determine the fault.
Due the running rich you would think it could be the engine temp or air temp sensors but I don't think these have anything to do with the fuel pump issue.
Thanks for the response.
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have you tried to hook up the computer via battery terminals, I can't remember brand names, but if you live near an auto zone or advanced auto, they do free tool rentals, you have to leave a deposit equal to the price of the tool. but there comps can hook up on battery and alt to read codes.
I have a 90 with the 2.3 auto a4ld, similar problems last winter, truck would not start unless I put a heater under the front end for about a half an hour, turned out to be the ignition coil pack"s". There are two on my 2.3 but thats because it's got 8 plugs on 4 cylenders? not sure about 2.8
I would also recomend at least cleaning all of your plugs, and also the engine will not idle and will stall every time you brake if the air intake is off or leaking.
if you can get it to start you can check the vacuum lines and fuel system/ air intake by spraying starting fluid on everything while the engine is running, listen for changes in the idle
also how much gas is in it? did the gas gauge break?
I have a 90 with the 2.3 auto a4ld, similar problems last winter, truck would not start unless I put a heater under the front end for about a half an hour, turned out to be the ignition coil pack"s". There are two on my 2.3 but thats because it's got 8 plugs on 4 cylenders? not sure about 2.8
I would also recomend at least cleaning all of your plugs, and also the engine will not idle and will stall every time you brake if the air intake is off or leaking.
if you can get it to start you can check the vacuum lines and fuel system/ air intake by spraying starting fluid on everything while the engine is running, listen for changes in the idle
also how much gas is in it? did the gas gauge break?
Last edited by cj091184; Apr 29, 2006 at 07:51 PM.
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just a thought there is a fuel pump relay on my truck, I think it's under the dash in the middle on the passenger side it's just a little button that pops see if you can find it and reset
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Well the new ECU finally arrived, installed it, hooked up battery cables, turned on key, fuel pump ran built up 40 psi and turned off. Engine started ran a little rough until it cleared out and now runs like a top again. I'm a happy camper, got my little ATV back again.
I'm not sure what conclusions could be drawn from this for diagnostics. There was another thread where the fuel pump ran continuously and could not pull codes, and replaced ECU, similar to my experience. I'm thinking the extended use of the winch must have caused some voltage spikes which blew the ECU. Or the constant battery charging of the alternator did the evil deed. I will not use the winch anymore!! Or maybe there is some filter I could install on the battery cable.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
I'm not sure what conclusions could be drawn from this for diagnostics. There was another thread where the fuel pump ran continuously and could not pull codes, and replaced ECU, similar to my experience. I'm thinking the extended use of the winch must have caused some voltage spikes which blew the ECU. Or the constant battery charging of the alternator did the evil deed. I will not use the winch anymore!! Or maybe there is some filter I could install on the battery cable.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
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