Gasket Removal
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 0
From: Lower 48
Gasket Removal
When disassembling parts and I run across a gasket that has permanently adhered to the metal, I use a Dremel tool with a used piece of sandpaper. I work around the circumference (as opposed to perpendicular). In this way the small scratches from the sandpaper do not create a place for oil to seep out from under the gasket.
Trail Rider
Trail Rider
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Gasket Removal
TWO thoughts here -
The cans of Gasket Remover spray at parts stores really help a bunch. I've used the stuff, and watched the proverbial "Stubborn Gasket from Hell" turn into something like old rubber...
But even so, there are some it won't work on.
And as far as Gasket Scrapers go, the best I have ever found was NOT from Snap On -
It was a plain old 1 inch Stanley Wood Chisel that cost me less than five bucks, and is kept in a special place in my tool boxes so that it never gets used as a chisel.
The cans of Gasket Remover spray at parts stores really help a bunch. I've used the stuff, and watched the proverbial "Stubborn Gasket from Hell" turn into something like old rubber...
But even so, there are some it won't work on.
And as far as Gasket Scrapers go, the best I have ever found was NOT from Snap On -
It was a plain old 1 inch Stanley Wood Chisel that cost me less than five bucks, and is kept in a special place in my tool boxes so that it never gets used as a chisel.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Something I've found that works great for scraping off gasket is a good pair of scissors, take them apart and remove the handles, they work especially good on motorcycle engines, you can lay the blade flat across the mating surfaces and by lifting the blade angle slightly enough to catch the gasket you'll do little if any damage to the mating surfaces. you can also get a lot of controlled leverage with it. works excellent !
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
I have a Mac carbide cutter gasket scraper, it's got a four sided carbide head that's about 3/4" across. Works great on getting everything off steel and cast iron, but can dig aluminum pretty bad. Otherwise, I use a chisel that I have had for years and have ground down and re-sharpened so many times there isn't much of a wide part left anymore.
Trending Topics
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: North East
I use either a wire wheel (drill based or on my 6" grinder depending on the part) I have found though a di-grinder with a brown cookie and a soft touch works fantastic, especially on the engine side of a gasket issue.
remember though when using a di-grinder it Can and Will remove metal even with the brown cookies. I happen to know this first hand.
remember though when using a di-grinder it Can and Will remove metal even with the brown cookies. I happen to know this first hand.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
I work mostly on cast iron parts and I like using a D-A Sander with a 180 grit disc. Removes material fast and leaves a surface that looks like it was just machined.
I also use a putty knife cut down to about 1 inch long and sharpened to a fine edge. The handle is comfortable to use and it is easy to sharpen when needed. Make sure the metal blade extends up into the handle so you can tap on it and not break the plastic handle.
I also use a putty knife cut down to about 1 inch long and sharpened to a fine edge. The handle is comfortable to use and it is easy to sharpen when needed. Make sure the metal blade extends up into the handle so you can tap on it and not break the plastic handle.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,562
Likes: 2
From: Southern MD
I have used some stuff called Hancolite to remove gaskets. MEAN stuff. It has toulene (sp???) and some other 'lenes' in it.
It will eat a gasket in seconds. Gaskets turn into mush, literally.
(It will take paint off of a car in a matter of seconds, too.) Paint becomes a mass of crinkled crud. Flakes right off. Down to bare metal.
Stuff is hazardous. Can't get it anymore.
It will eat a gasket in seconds. Gaskets turn into mush, literally.
(It will take paint off of a car in a matter of seconds, too.) Paint becomes a mass of crinkled crud. Flakes right off. Down to bare metal.
Stuff is hazardous. Can't get it anymore.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
That Hancolite sounds like it is nearly the same as regular paint stripper. I imagine that stuff would peel a gasket off fairly fast.
I have several tools I use to remove gaskets:
First, don't use any sealer on gaskets. This is the most effective tool I have come up with.
Second, to fix other's mistakes, I use a HD putty knife, a chisel, a razor blade, a wire brush, and chemical stripper.
I have several tools I use to remove gaskets:
First, don't use any sealer on gaskets. This is the most effective tool I have come up with.
Second, to fix other's mistakes, I use a HD putty knife, a chisel, a razor blade, a wire brush, and chemical stripper.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
I have a roll of carborundum paper, 80 grit, about an inch and a half wide. Make a little sanding block and make a few wraps and put a small screw in the end to hold the paper. The advantage of this is that solvent does not affect the adhesive so you can continuously dip it in solvent and sand off just about anything. Great for iron or aluminum. When it wears, just rip off the outer layer and carry on.