Another FE Runs!! 390!!
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From: NE Ga
Another FE Runs!! 390!!
Well guys I fired off my 6 month 390 FE project about an hour and half ago and man she's sweeeeeeet!!! Nothin better than the 20min roar of a 390 and then the slightly rough but sweet idle. Man oh man...I'd like to thank all the guys on here who contributed unrelentlessly to my nagging, confusing, and picky questions but it all paid off!!! Here's the build:
-390 .030 "Mirror 105"
-crank 20/20
-343941 cam w/ DSC adj valve train and comp springs to match
-D2TE-AA heads w/ no porting or polishing w/ 73cc chambers
-Stock 4v Intake (not "S" code) w/ 2" phenolic spacer
-Victor Reinz gasket set including head gaskets (.035-.040)
-Silvolite 1131's w/ stock truck rods
-Holley 4160 600 vac/sec
-Pertronix Ignition w/ Flamethrower Coil w/ Autolite 124 plugs
-Stock water pump w/ impeller plate
Once again guys thanks for all your help and patience...Oh but wait I have yet another question, I've asked this before but I'm still confused about setting the timing. What would be a good initial timing number...is 6 alright?
-390 .030 "Mirror 105"
-crank 20/20
-343941 cam w/ DSC adj valve train and comp springs to match
-D2TE-AA heads w/ no porting or polishing w/ 73cc chambers
-Stock 4v Intake (not "S" code) w/ 2" phenolic spacer
-Victor Reinz gasket set including head gaskets (.035-.040)
-Silvolite 1131's w/ stock truck rods
-Holley 4160 600 vac/sec
-Pertronix Ignition w/ Flamethrower Coil w/ Autolite 124 plugs
-Stock water pump w/ impeller plate
Once again guys thanks for all your help and patience...Oh but wait I have yet another question, I've asked this before but I'm still confused about setting the timing. What would be a good initial timing number...is 6 alright?
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From: NE Ga
Ya I know, I'm gonna spend most of the day tomorrow tuning and double checkin everything so I can possibly take it back to school with me tomorrow night or monday morning. On the mechanical advance, should I rev it to a certain rpm such as 2000 and see where it advances to w/o vacuum advance? If so what would be a good degree? 20, 22?? I know 38-40 over all but I'm just a little vague in the mechanical adv area. Also has anyone ever run Dexron III in their pwr steering system? I know older types told you to run Type F but ATF is just hydraulic fluid so I would think it would be better to run ATF being that it's a detergent. What do ya'll think? I'm also gonna be coming back here within a few days to question you guys about my jets in my holley. Right now it's got 65's in the primarys...do I just go by the color of my plugs to go larger or smaller? Thanks!
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From: Colville, Washington
Whee!! Its fun to hear that rumble! Good job!!
Use the fluid in PS system that is called for by the pump. Actual power steering fluid seems to be compatible in all but a few import systems, so that is what I use.
At 2000 RPM you should have a total of around 24-30 degrees, it will need to be set to your engine as soon as possible, there are too many variables to give an exact number.
Remember to check your plug color after shutting it off from cruise RPM, not after idleing.
Use the fluid in PS system that is called for by the pump. Actual power steering fluid seems to be compatible in all but a few import systems, so that is what I use.
At 2000 RPM you should have a total of around 24-30 degrees, it will need to be set to your engine as soon as possible, there are too many variables to give an exact number.
Remember to check your plug color after shutting it off from cruise RPM, not after idleing.
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From: Mesquite, Texas
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From: NE Ga
ok i'm fixin to run up north a little over 100 miles and i'm gonna try to average 60mph. Would you check the plugs after that? also we had to set it at 5btdc...any higher and it pinged going uphill...but even at 5 it makes it harder to turn over...i'm just hoping the engine will loosing up more as it breaks in. Later guys gotta run!
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colville, Washington
In order to check the plugs, you need to shut the engine off cleanly. In other words at the end of the run, without letting it idle shut it off and coast to a stop, then pull and read the plugs.
It should not be hard to turn over at 5 btdc. But for now run it where it does not ping and runs good.
It should not be hard to turn over at 5 btdc. But for now run it where it does not ping and runs good.
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From: NE Ga
well the battery i had to turn the 360 over was a duralast 750ca. That wasn't enough apparently to turn over a 390 with 90 more psi cylinder pressure so i put my dads 1000amper Everlast in and it turns over fine except it still bucks a little bit to where it's hard to start at 5btdc. Anyhow I drove it up 100 miles today on the interstate averaging 55 as my speed and used a half tank of gas...not so good. But the good news is i just threw the holley 4160 on and did a quick tweak job of the mixture screws. It still runs rougher than it should and i'm not sure why. I've got all new autolite 124's, new 8mm wires, new bluestreak cap and rotor (big 351 style), pertronix w/ flametrhower, and a new engine. It smooths out the more i advance the timing and my vacuum shoots way up to 19 which is great but it pings like a freak going up a slight hill w/o a load. Have I just built a premium sucker and thats it??????!!!! My 4160 has #65 jets in the primarys and i noticed it smelled pretty rich after adjusting my mixture screws...do you think i could go with a smaller jet? Anyways if you got questions you can ask me then ask away!
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From: Colville, Washington
It smells rich at idle only?? The main jets sound OK for the build. Adjust the mixture screws for the best idle vacuum and RPM, then check plug color after a short run. Is it possible you have a vacuum leak?? perhaps a vacuum port on the carb not plugged? That can make it hard to get the idle right, it ends up rich at idle to keep it running and then lean at higher rpm due to the leak.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: iowa
that jet is fine, I was telling before that you will likely have to take some centrifugal timing out off the motor and use an adjustable vac cannister. In the Fe's with duraspark, they have a 16L/21L combo, that is to much.
I personaly run 18-20 btdc and a 16L slot that has windshield wiper hose. Its about like a 12L slot now. I don't use vac advance either.
I personaly run 18-20 btdc and a 16L slot that has windshield wiper hose. Its about like a 12L slot now. I don't use vac advance either.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Iowa
So it pings 'eh... bite my tongue, bite my tongue, oww! 
Anyway, is it possible your balancer has slipped and you're running a lot more timing than you think you are? Also, check you plugs, it sounds like you're running lean going down the road, and have the idle mixture screws too far out.
Dont figure mileage on a new motor until you get at least 500 miles on it AND get it tuned right.
Anyway, is it possible your balancer has slipped and you're running a lot more timing than you think you are? Also, check you plugs, it sounds like you're running lean going down the road, and have the idle mixture screws too far out.
Dont figure mileage on a new motor until you get at least 500 miles on it AND get it tuned right.
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From: NE Ga
Well what exactly is the point of vac advance if you don't have to have it? What does it improve? Isn't more of just a responsive thing? I'm not sure where 57 came from but my max advance with vacuum advance is 36-38 at about 2500-3000. I just printed out the instructions for my holley from the holley website so maybe one day this week i can make sure everything is sealed off and right. Also the ported vacuum ont he side of my holley, I thought that shouldn't have any vacuum at all at idle but we're getting some which advances the timing at idle...are you suppossed to have a little vacuum? And last, is there a surefire way to know when/if you secondaries are kicking in besides watching the fuel gauge? I'm kinda fuzzy on how to adjust that so it kicks in and kicks in at the right time...i'm also gonna be reading up on how to adjust that too.