Draging Clutch
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
Draging Clutch
Getting some miles on the new rebuild. Motor running great. Did the Clifford Holley HEI dist conversion. Nice passing power. K&N cone filter honks. Had to go the K&N route because of dog house interferance in the van. Anyway I now have clutch problems. I still don't know the rear gear ratio but I do know it's geared to the moon. At times on hills and when the motor is cold I have to abuse the poor two year old China clutch. The sucker (through outbearing) chirps like a bird. At the clutch install I used the existing clutch release mechanism which is hydraulic. The thing that blows my mind, and others that I talk to, is I do NOT see a bleed valve on the slave cylinder! What's with that? The problem I have is the clutch is not disengaging completley. Grind me a pound. I have been pumping the clutch before shifts, but this is getting old. So my next step will be to replace the whole clutch release mechanism unless someone on this site can turn the light on for me again. I have not checked on that assy, but it must come complete as a sealed unit with brake fluid? No bleed valve?
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
China Dragon Clutch
This year I rebuilt my 300 I6. Two years ago I installed a new clutch assy. I did not replace the clutch release hydraulic mechanism. I did get the flywheel surfaced. Now the clutch is not disengaging competley. I do not see a bleed valve on the slave cylinder. How do you bleed this system? Is it rebuildable or do you just replace this as one assy, master/slave hose? I know I should check for a bent through out bearing arm. I looked for worn bushing/linkage but it did not look bad. Also, am I missing a return spring on the through out bearing arm? The bearing chirps like a bird, and will change sounds when I push on the clutch. If I pump the clutch pedal before shifting, I grind less. Thanks for any and all info. Not looking forward of replacing the clutch. Oh yea, the clutch is made in China, GRRRRRR.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
From: Seneca, SC
man, that sucks. I'm still on the old clutch, thinking hayes when I replace it.
If you've got full fluid and it isn't a common system with the brakes then I'd say to pull the quick disconnect at the tranny, pump the clutch a few times, then reconnect and see what you've got.
If the throwout bearing is chirping it's probly gone. This may be your grinding and whatnot.
Dragon=Dragging
If you've got full fluid and it isn't a common system with the brakes then I'd say to pull the quick disconnect at the tranny, pump the clutch a few times, then reconnect and see what you've got.
If the throwout bearing is chirping it's probly gone. This may be your grinding and whatnot.
Dragon=Dragging
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
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Well, I know the grinding is the gears when I try to shift, expecially reverse. Just called NAPA. Special order. No rebuild kits. 68 bucks for master, 56 for slave. Hope this stuff is not from China too. A quick disconnect? I will check that out. The hose looks old. It's got a nice splint made out of a wood shingle with zip ties to keep the hose out of harms way. Really hate to see that go. It came with the van. Thanks for the feed back.
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Originally Posted by racedude48
there has to be a bleeder on the slave cylinder, unless someone broke it off.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
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Likes: 1
I was wondering what happened to this thread. Yea it makes more sence to post it here. Good group over in I6 land. Just did the army craw under the van to look once again for a bleed valve. Still don't see one. Don't see a disconnect either. None in the shop manual either. Another mind blower is the slave cylinder looks like it is made out of plastic. As for what transmission it is, I don't know yet. It's a three speed. A top loader, (inspection plate on top). The shift is on the column. It's definitely not set up to pull wagon carts thru a muddy field. It's set up to glide down the flat and level interstate, which it does great. Just hauled cabinet sheet stock 50 miles today. Got a complement on nice old truck at the lumber yard too today. What I will probley try to do is remove and clean both master and slave cylinders, install new hose and fluid. If this does not fix it I guess I have to order new stuff. I really have a problem of buying parts built in China for my Ford. I will shop around. Does anyone have a better source for this assy if I need to buy new? Oh yea... it's a 1985 E150 van with a 300I6.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Ok, your tranny is a Ford 3.03. I had no idea that tranny was ever offered with a hydraulic clutch. I would have bet money that it was a mechanical linkage.
At any rate, I'd stay away from Napa parts. I would start shopping online at jeffsbroncograveyard.com, rockauto.com, blueovaltruckparts.com, etc.
I went looking for the balljoint in the center of a CV joint for our FSB. Napa had it - the chinese version. For $40. JBG had it as well - for $13. A motorcraft part, nevertheless. Unfortunately, the Bronco was halfway disassembled and I needed the part to put her back together. So it sat for a week while I waited for the UPS man.
At any rate, I'd stay away from Napa parts. I would start shopping online at jeffsbroncograveyard.com, rockauto.com, blueovaltruckparts.com, etc.
I went looking for the balljoint in the center of a CV joint for our FSB. Napa had it - the chinese version. For $40. JBG had it as well - for $13. A motorcraft part, nevertheless. Unfortunately, the Bronco was halfway disassembled and I needed the part to put her back together. So it sat for a week while I waited for the UPS man.
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