I live in North Florida and don't see very cold temps here and if we get down to 30 or so, it does not last long. Thinking of Bio-diesel or even a WVO conversion on my truck.
1) WVO, can it harm the motor? I am looking for 400,000 mile plus out of it.

2)Is there any loss in performance. I have some mods both for fun and I tow a 22,000lb trailer at least once a week now.

3) I use this truck for work that is about 65 to even 100 miles a day for work depending which job I have for the day.
What is the best motor for a WVO conversion?

 

WVO is a little more difficult to use than Bio in that you will have to modify the fuel system to allow heating of the WVO. Additionally, you will have to install a tank for small amount of diesel because you must remember to shutdown and startup on diesel.

I am not positive but everything I have read indicates that WVO does not have as many BTUs per unit volume as diesel that means less power so your max performance levels on a dyno may suffer. If that is true it has implications when towing that 22K trailer, not quite as much power at WOT.

BD is used just like regular diesel, in fact you can mix them together with no problems. It does tend to cloud (crystalize) at higher temps so cold weather can be a problem for pure BD, that can be resolved my running a blend of BD and Petro (20% Petro seems to do it).

The biggest problem with BD is if you chose to make your own. It is a time consuming process that requires attention to detail, at least at first, and it produces some waste products, glycerol and wash water, you must find a way to dispose of.

I have heard that BD has a lower BTU level than Petro, not as big a difference as WVO but still present. So you may have a little less power than with Petro but more than WVO.

 

I guess that I could run on Dino diesel when towing. What about a WVO and diesel mix?
Also, my best source for WVO is from a Sea Food frier. Worried about the smell from that.

 

WVO and diesel do not mix very well. WVO is heavier than D-2 and will settle to the bottom of the tank.

I've been using B-100 for 2 years and in my opinion produces about 5-10 percent MORE power than D-2. I haul 16 tons of hay on my 5th-wheel trailer and have found no problems. Biodiesel has a slightly lower btu value than D-2 BUT a much higher cetane rating. Biodiesel is also an oxygenated fuel and contains aprox 10 percent oxygen, that may account for a slight HP increase.

FABMANDELUX.

 

Thanks for your reply FABMANDELUX. I have been reading up for about 4 months on biodiesel and what you have been doing, great things I must say!
But I do not know that I have the time to make my own biodiesel now.
This is kind of my thinking, 1) set up the truck to run on WVO now. 2) when I have time, start making my own biodiesel. 3) end up with a truck that can run on both.
I am still not sure about the WVO doing any damage to my motor or even injectors? I know about the fuel pump problem and could keep an extra.

 

Absolutely correct the two will not stay mixed for long.

Interesting I hadn't thought of the oxygenation actually enhancing combustion and countering the lower BTUs. Glad to hear there is no power deficit and there may actually be a power bonus with BD

 

I am running what amounts to about B30 (I buy the 100 and add #2) and have noticed increased throttle response and power too. Not much obviously but improved nonetheless. I was on the interstate today and nudged the throttle to get around a slowpoke and she really jumped and ran. The quieter performance sure makes it nice too. I am guessing as it cleans the injectors and lines the improved response is from less restriction in the system. Now that I have a reliable supplier I am going to start running straight bio.

 

Wish I could get it here...close. I might see if I buy 200 to 400 gals at a time if some one would deliver to me. How well does bio store for about 3 months?

 

not sure but since the guy I get it from makes several thousand gallons at a time I suspect it would not have any problem lasting a few months assuming no bizarre storage/temp conditions. He suggested I use one of his 55 gallon drums and keep it in my garage to fill whenever I want. So as to avoid the 50 mile round trip I have to make to get it. For me, that would last at least 2 months. I just might do it.

 

No problems mate! Bio will store just fine! Biodiesel has vitamin E in it, Which is DEATH on micro-organisms= little algae growth. Just keep water out.


FABMANDELUX.

 

The thing you need to be concerned about WVO is injector/combustion chamber coking. If you properly heat it (startup/shutdown on diesel) you shouldn't have any problems. Many have run successfully on WVO for many miles. Leskwvo on this forum is using PlantDrive's kit, as I plan to (or perhaps the Vegistroke). There is a "grease" forum http://www.greasecar.com/forum_view.cfm?frmID=1 with lots of WVO users, including many PSDs. In fact, nearly all VO kit vendors have a kit designed specifically for the GenII PSD. I bought my 99 F250 with WVO fuel in mind, just having trouble scraping up the cash for a kit. I can't see making bioD for $0.75/gallon plus the time and hassle when I can prepare WVO for $0.05/gallon and virtually no work. I'll keep the extra $ for myself, thank you, there's plenty I can spend it on, like performance mods. With a 120+HP chip, you'll have PLENTY of power, regardless of BTUs, etc.

 

I have looked at the systems for sale and looked at putting my own together. Living in North Florida, could I get away without heaters in the lines for the summer?

 

what kind of driving do you do? Is this for commuting or for long *** drives all day long.

If you have a short commute and want to run WVO you need to have electric heat.

If on the other hand you haul hay all day form one state to the another then you could get by with out the electric heat and depend solely on coolant heat.

 

I am driving this as a daily driver now. Up to 100 miles a day, but the longest part is to Jacksonville and back each day. That is about 30 miles each way at 65 mph.
I will have some large cutting jobs this summer with my tractor and last summer I had 20 to 30 days of 40 to 60 mile each way.

 

then it just is a matter of how much you want to save. With electric heat like the Vegtherm you would be able to switch over sooner to WVO since it will heat up faster then any coolant only system will. Hotter WVO sooner means faster switch over. Normally 1-2 minutes after engine start.

Were as with Coolant only heating you will need to maybe drive 5-8 minutes for the engine to come to full operating temp.

My suggestion to you would be go with what you can afford. You will save money, and later as winter approaches you may find you want to add electric heat.

100 miles a day on WVO is a saving of about 6 gallons of #2 or about 18 bucks a day. I used round numbers # 2 is about 3 buck a gallon US these days.

Do the math the kits all pay for them selves in a very short time