'87 f150 Front end
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'87 f150 Front end
After driving my 4x4 f150 for three hours on the highway I noticed that hubs were warm to the touch. Not really hot but warmer then the rest of the truck. It seems to me that this is a sign the bearings are going.
If so how hard are they to replace? Should I get aftermarket hubs while I am at it? Or just regreas the old ones. I know it's hard to tell me these things with out seeing the parts but what experinces do people have.
I also am going to do the front shocks, and maybe all the steering linkage. If I go that far should I do ball joints to?
I have a 1,000 mile trip coming up and I want to make it there.
Thanks,
Blindlightguy
If so how hard are they to replace? Should I get aftermarket hubs while I am at it? Or just regreas the old ones. I know it's hard to tell me these things with out seeing the parts but what experinces do people have.
I also am going to do the front shocks, and maybe all the steering linkage. If I go that far should I do ball joints to?
I have a 1,000 mile trip coming up and I want to make it there.
Thanks,
Blindlightguy
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Remember that normal braking generates a lot of heat some of which is transfered to the hubs so they are usually quite warm. If you are concerned, depending on when it was last done, you could certainly pack the hub bearings with new grease. As for ball joints have a look at them, checking for any play. Remember what President Reagan said-If it aint broke don`t fix it.
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Well I certainly agree about not fixing things that aren't broke, on the other hand I don't think this truck has been well taken care of so I m sort of figuring it is about time. And as I like to say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
But I also am cheap.
But I also am cheap.
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC
the heat you get can be from two problems. you could have dry bearings or the bearings could be too tight. either way you will have to pull the hub to tell. far as the lock out hub, if it locks in and out, nothing is wrong with it. it wont create heat. if you play in the water any, you could have water in the hub and killed the grease. most people change the races, bearings, and hub seals, but they never look at the spindle seal and bearing. i learned the hard way. to check the ball joints it will take two people. take a jack and jack up one wheel at the time just inside the ball joint to clear the tire about 2 to 3 inches. have someone take a long bar place under the tire on the ground and have them to lift on the bar making the tire move. look at the ball joints, if there is any side to side movement, you should replace them both. also good time to again check the spindle bearings because the spindle has to come off. any ??? let me know kenny 
95 f150 eddie bauier 460 C-6 divroced np205 39.5 boggers 78 dana 44 stright axle 8 m.p.g.
95 f150 eddie bauier 460 C-6 divroced np205 39.5 boggers 78 dana 44 stright axle 8 m.p.g.
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Well that all sounds good FatboyF150. I have the shop manual and it looks simple enough as long as you get all the pieces back together corectly.
I think I am going to go ahead and give it a go by myself. I hate paying people to do something I can do if I just invest some time.
Provided that my bearings are in need of replacment is their any preferred brand out there? I would like this to be aslong lasting a fix as possible, but keep the prices resonable.
Thanks.
I think I am going to go ahead and give it a go by myself. I hate paying people to do something I can do if I just invest some time.
Provided that my bearings are in need of replacment is their any preferred brand out there? I would like this to be aslong lasting a fix as possible, but keep the prices resonable.
Thanks.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 193
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC
timkin bearing are said to be the best, but the last time i rebuilt the hubs on mine , i used carquest bearings. they have held up for 2 years so far. i just service the hubs regularly like fourbyers are suposed to.
