i believe my slave cylinder went out on my 86 bII tonight,i last used it on sunday,it ran great,and tonight it all of a sudden lost all pressure in the clutch and got hung in reverse,turned engine off put in neutral,so needless to say i now cannot shift intop gears since i am unable to disengage/in order to repalce it do i need to remove the tranny? if so is the transfer case a big deal to remove? i have done clutches before but not on 4x4 models..any help is greatly appreciated as always!

 

only difference over a 4wd and 2wd is the transfer case..just a little bit bigger and bulky at the end..i've pulled my transmission and put it back in a couple times...darn front main pump seal..so nothing to worry about if you have to pull it..just a extra drive shaft to remove..as far as the slave cylinder..dont know about that.

 

What makes you think it's the slave? Is it leaking? Are you sure it's not the master cylinder?

As far as replacing the slave goes: If you don't see a hydraulic cylinder on the outside of the bell housing, at the other end of the hydraulic line from the master cylinder, the transmission will need to be separated from the engine to gain access to the slave unit. I've been perusing all the information on the Mazda M5OD-R1 with which I'm planning to replace my current '84 Toyo Kogyo. The Toyo' just wasn't up to handling the increased power from the 2.9L FI upgrade I made, when the 2.8L virtually went up in smoke.

I got lucky finding this M5-R1; now I just need to find the driveshafts to fit this 2.5~3.0" longer tranny setup, and find a way to get the hydraulic clutch plumbed to the older master unit.

While researching I've learned about the clutch hydraulics woes pertaining to this transmission. One persistent troubleshooter found that, after trying just about everything else, replacing the master cylinder (and flushing out all the old fluid) turned out to be the most permanent solution to a similar problem to the one which you described.

If hydraulic fluid isn't coming from the front area of the transmission (i.e. - the bell housing), I'd say, check out the master cylinder.

A final note, when filling the fluid reservoir. Only put in enough to cover the bottom of the reservoir. As the clutch wears down, the reservoir fluid level RISES! If it is filled up after flushing the system, especially if done the same time as renewing the clutch, you'll have hydraulic fluid stripping the paint off your firewall before you know it!

 

Check to see whether the pushrod that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder is wet (with brake fluid). There's a good chance that the master cylinder is the problem. I'd start with replacing that anyway since it's *far* easier to replace the master than the slave. Be sure and bleed the system thoroughly so that you get a firm clutch pedal travel. I bled mine as though I was bleeding brakes. A lot of pumping ... and it takes two people.

Good luck!

Richard

 

Just replacing the master cylinder could solve your problem but it is a good idea to replace the master and the slave at the same time. Fushing the system could clean it good enough to not damage the slave cylinder. I tried just replacing the master cylinder in a 94 explore and ended up replacing the slave and the master again. I would rather spend the extra time know and it may save you a little money later.

 

thanks for all the info guys!! the reason i think it's the slave cylinder is i am seeing fluid leaking arounf the bell housing area,i checked the master cyl and do not see any fluid around there..guess i will start on it this weekend

 

i got the transfer case removed,exhaust removed,starter,got tranny suppoerted by a jack now only problem i am having is removeing the shifter assy.. do i have to take it apart from the inside at rear of tranny or do i just remove the 4 bolts and then just pull it out?

 

just remove the 4 bolts and it should pull out.

 

ok,thanks for the info! i will do it this week. and will hopefully get in going again soon

 

The shifter is best removed through the floorboard, accessed from the passenger compartment. The shifter (floor) boot will need to be removed first. It's held to the floor with small (10mm head) bolts around the base just under the carpet. Try to minimize the chance of dirt getting into the tranny should the rubber seal there be compromised, too. Some transmissions have 4 bolts, some have 3, holding the shifter on. On the Mazda M5ODs, there's 3 Torx-head bolts, though the others are more conventional.

When reassembling gasketed parts, (i.e. the shifter mount and transaxle-to-tranny), the (dark brown) brush-on Permatex aviation sealer does a fine job. (It's usually found at your local auto parts store in a few-ounce-sized white-plastic container with a screw-on cap with applicator brush.) Even if the gasket didn't stay intact during disassembly, as long as it's ALL there, just dab it as dry as possible with a dry cloth, or brake-cleaner-soaked one, brush a thin layer onto both mating surfaces 15 minutes or so before reassembly, and it's practically as good as new. (Do I sound like a Permatex salesman, or what?)

Anyway, good luck with the repair and getting your rig back on (or off) the road in short order!

 

thanks for the info hooked on 4wd!! do you know what kind of fluid i need to use in the tranny and transfer case? i am hearing lots of different things for the tranny such as 80w gear oil,automatic trans fluid,90w gear oil...i might as well change it while i'm at it with the slave cyl and clutch.thanks for all the replies!

 

What I've learned so far is:

If the transmission has a removable cover, or "pan" on the bottom side, it takes the gear oil. I prefer the Mobil-1 (full synthetic) 75W-140 for heavy duty use, or the lighter grade (same brand) for the best light-duty fuel economy. If there's NO such pan/cover on the bottom (there'll be one on top), it takes Ford-Mercon / Dexron-II(+) ATF (that's "Automatic Transmission Fluid" not the "Alcohol. Tobacco and Firearms" agency [ ]), rated for use in MANUAL transmissions. There are also synthetic versions of compatible ATF available (Mobil-1, Amsoil & Redline), if you want to give it the best.

But in your case, I would put the required amount of a fairly light non-synthetic (cheap) temporary oil/fluid in it to flush out any foreign matter that may get in during the repair you'll be doing. After filling, first let the engine run with the trans in neutral and clutch engaged for 15 mins (give or take 5), then take the truck around the block once or twice. Immediately, drain the fluid, thoroughly clean the drain plug(s) magnet of metal particles, and reinstal it/them. Finally, put in the required amount of the good stuff.

 

thanks for all your help!! will let you all know hopefully soon how it turns out

 

Word of advice: replace the gasket for the shifter and at least the rear transmission / transfer case seal while you're at it. both are notorious for leaking in my experience.

 

yeah,i was planning on replacing it..the transfer case to tranny gasket was leaking. can i get them from advance or auto zone or do i need to go to the dealer?