Hi, I'm new to the diesel and I have an 03 Superduty 7.3L. I have a Hypertech Stage 3 Programmer and a K&N FIPK air system installed in it. I have checked the truck for codes a couple of times in the last year or so and I have had the code P1249 (Wastagate Fail Steady State Test) code two times. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the wastagate is and what it does, and also if you think I should be worried about this code coming up. It has never thrown a service engine light for this code. Thanks in advance for any input anyone might have...

 

Sounds like u need a boost relief valve in your MAP line to clear the code.
Nut

 

How hard is that to install?

 

Very easy. U can pick one up from http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/
BTW, the wastegate opens up in your turbine housing to dump exhaust drive pressure to control boost. The turbo is only rated to 25psi max boost.
Nut

 

Thanks for your help I'll have to go there and check it out..

 

this is probably unrelated, but you wanted to know what the wastegate is and what it does. it is located in the exhaust side of the turbocharger. all it consists of is a hole (port) in the side of the turbine housing, and a flapper valve that moves on a hinge that can close the port off, forcing all the exhaust to drive through the turbine, or open, and dump some of the pressure right past the turbine wheel. the advantages of this is that it limits the amount of boost the turbo can produce. since the turbine is designed for fast spoolup and not very good high speed flow, the wastegate is there to basically set the maximum boost it will make. since the turbocharger is just a fancy exhaust driven air pump (centrifugal blower is the proper term), it is controlled by the flow of the exhaust, and other things such as heat and rate of speed, but that doesnt matter. im getting somewhat off topic.

so when the control system senses the need for limiting the pressure, there is air pressure applied to the wastegate canister (the gold canister on the turbo inlet side), and that overcomes the spring pressure inside, and that moves the arm out from the canister. the linkage on the flapper valve then moves the valve out, which uncovers the hole in the side of the turbine. since it's easier to dump out of there instead of going through the turbine, it does that. less air flow and heat through the turbine=less speed of the turbo wheel, which means less air into the engine.

a picture of this port i talk about is below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/DSCF2863.jpg
here is a more broader picture. the fan looking thing is the turbine wheel, and the blades are angled so that as the exhaust passes over them, it forces them to turn. less air through them makes it spin slower.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/DSCF2864.jpg

 

i have a like-new boost relief valve for sale if you want it. reason that i don't want it is that it is inferior to a boost regulator. the relief valve creates a actual leak when it activates. plus it fluctuates, it won't hold the pressure at a certain PSI. for instance if it is set to 24 psi, it will open at 24, drop boost to 19-20, and spike pressure back up to 24 before it "pops" again. it does this over and over, and i have experience of it. i saw the boost gauge jump all the way up a long hill. not compressor surge either. i moved the MAP relief valve about 12" away (in the line), it didnt fluctuate anymore, but it still set a SES light. went with a regulator and no more SES light. it's your choice. ill sell the relief valve for cheap if you want it, or do it right with a regulator.
check this out- http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?overboost=1

 

Strokin,
I have the dual relief vavle from BCDP and have not seen this issue. Works as advertised.
Nut

 

Ok, I've been looking at the overboost kit that you have mentioned and for about the same price it does look like it might be the better way to go. Is there very much that one has to do to hook it up? It does not say if it comes with any gages, would I need them or does it come with everything that I'll need?Thanks...

 

nope, doesnt come with any gauges. very easy to install. everything is right up top where it's easy to access. takes max 5 minutes to install if you know where each end goes. comes with instructions but i didnt need them. it's rather simple.

 

Thanks Strokin, it does make more sense that if you don't need to add a "leak" to the system that it would work better.. Thanks for the information too...

 

This might be a dumb Question, but if I install this should I take it off if I take the truck into the dealer for any service?