The stock fan dont move 4,000 CFM...

 

I've been running a Flex-a-lite (FAL-295) dual puller for 2 years now and I've never had a cooling issue. It covers my entire radiator too and installation was fairly simple. They pull a max of 4600cfm and it comes with an variable speed controller. I think I paid $320 for the kit.

Another, less expensive, option is a fan from a Mark-8 with a relay fan control/trigger. I know a couple of people using the Mark-8 fan with a Painless wiring kit and they seem to work well for those guys.

 

when you say a variable speed based on temp what unit or item sneds the current to the motor. I get the hotter the temp idea but what sees the temp and then sends the current to the fan? It sounds like the ideal way to resolve the problem!

 

Funny summit has that kit and the the FLX-298 kit but the 298 kit is cheaper and its the exact same kit!


298
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D298&N=42949 24500+4294838842+4294839058+400226+4294783223+115& autoview=sku
295
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Both are a better deal than this kit

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Not exactly...the reason the 298 is cheaper than the 295 is because it doesn't come with variable speed controller or temp probe. However, 298 and 295 kits use the same fans and shroud.

 

The more efficient the motor, the less current it draws. The less current it draws, the more electricity is available for audio, lights, and in my case, in-dash PC.

I couldn't really say I got better mileage... as my engine is quite tired (390k miles). I get 10ish driving locally, and 13-14-15ish on the highway depending on a variety of things, mostly how late I am It's also a crewcab, and weighs in at 6997 lbs according to the local brickyard.

The PWM controller I've put together is still in experimental mode, but works fine on the workbench. It adjusts speed of the fan based on the ford water temp sender, heat applied by waving a propane torch at the brass tip. It's not designed to work with the existing sender, I'm planning on adding a second one so it's completely seperate from the cluster. Actually, by the time this is done, I'll have four water temp senders LOL. One for the radiator fan PWM unit I'm making, one for the already installed digital cluster:

One for the EEC (factory) and another for the EEC (factory) that's in the crossover port on the intake to tell the EEC when the thermostat opens.

I could probably adapt to one of the existing senders by changing some resistors around and such but I've already drilled and tapped holes for the additional sending units so... probably not LOL.

The current is the same actually, it's a simple PWM controller. PWM = pulse width modulation. Basically, I pulse the fan with high frequency square waves, and as the temp lowers, the pulse width gets narrower, and the space between the pulses gets larger. When the temp increases, the pulse width gets wider, and the space between gets smaller. At 200 degrees the duty cycle is about 98% or so, and at ambient temperature (leaving the sending unit on the workbench, unheated by anything but "air") the duty cycle is about 5%, which means the fan spins very slowly, essentially not moving any air.

Same concept as a switching power supply, like in your PC.

Once I'm happy with the final design, I'll mount it in a box and "pot" it so it's uneffected by weather, temperature, hammers and hungry wire eating rats.

This started off as an idea, which morphed into something to test on my workbench, and it will probably sit there until I install the new radiator, the new non-caddy electric fan, and of course, the 500cid stroker.

I'm slow.

 

BTW, the cheapest solution still is a junkyard fan (bring your tape measure!). Many of the older GM fans have a temperature switch mounted on the fan, so you only need to apply power from IGN (or from the battery, through a relay driven by IGN) and when things get hot - pop, on goes the fan. Cools off - fan goes off.

I'm just being fancy with the PWM thing because I wanted to play with pulse width stuff. I have another project that requires a more precise PWM circuit so I merely wanted to find something less criitical to "play" on.

 

Yes, in two stages: 2750cfm and 4600cfm It also has a slow ramp speed upon start-up, so it's easier on your electrical system. The VSC is also adjustable as to when you want it to spool up the fans. It can also be wired to come on when the A/C is running. I've been very pleased with the 295's thus far.

 

ford windstar minivan has a dual elec fan setup that will almost drop right in whith a couple of simple 90* brackets. iv got some pics in my gallery junk yard fan, advanced auto is where i got the fan controller. thecontroler can run two fans, but it stopped wotking lkike a week after i got it now the fan stays on. the best part of this mod is the engine seems to run alot smoother with a little better throttle response

 

I just installed an electric fan in my F-250. It was a mr. gasket fan. I also installed a flex-lite fan contoller. I haven't had any problems yet. The whole set up cost me about $140.00. I can you the part numbers and some pic's if you want.