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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 05:38 PM
  #1  
bohiaa's Avatar
bohiaa
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From: Bellville TX. Wof Houston
R12 to 134a

I did thsi conversion on my 88 a few years back. but everything was bad so It costed around 6 to 700.00

NOw I have discovered my 93 F150 is leaking R12....

I have read a ton of do's and dont's on a conversion....

has anyone done one and only replaced the drier......and it worked????
 
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 11:41 AM
  #2  
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I am sure you already know this, but the first thing to do is find and repair the leak. I have done three conversions by replacing only the drier and orifice tube with good results. After replacing them add the appropriate amount of the proper oil, have your system vacuumed out, and charge with about 85% of the amount of R12 it called for.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #3  
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lsrx101
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
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If you replace the dryer (actually the accumulator) and the orifice there's not much left. Flush the old oil out of the accumulator and condenser, drain the compressor, add the proper amount of Ester oil, evacuate and recharge. Of course reseal all of the connections.
Actually, with the recent increases in the price of R-134A and the price of R-12 coming down, it can be better to stick with R-12 if you know the system is tight.

I've seen a lot of weak fan clutches on early 90s Fords. They will pull enough air to keep the radiator cool but not enough for the AC to cool properly at low speeds. They will usually pass the "feel" test. Keep this in mind.
One real problem area here in Northern Ohio is the tube coming from the bottom of the condenser. Around here they all seem to rust through.Also, Watch for compressor shaft seal leaks, they can come back to bite you.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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bohiaa
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From: Bellville TX. Wof Houston
ok thanks guys....Yea finding that leak may be hard. I'm sure it's a seal...

This truck belonged to an old man, that was a family friend and he passed .

I recived the truck and it has 40,000 miles and it's in GREAT shape.
But last week I tore down an old bulding and hauled it off.
I'm thinking that whit the extra stress on the truck it made a seal leak badly
because the ac was allready weak...

When I did the conversion on the 88 someone told me to replace the fan clutch so I did and thought I wasted 40.00 but come to find out I did a good thing because like you said it passed the feel test....

Thanks again guys I will do the job this weekend and ley yall know how it goes.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #5  
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lsrx101
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
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Instead of trying to find one leaking seal, just do them all. It's about $10 or less to reseal all of the spring locks and the compressor manifold. As long as the condenser is ok you should be good to go for another few years.
The only caveat is the compressor shaft seal. You could pull the compressor and have the seal replaced for insurance, if you are inclined. Shaft seal leaks are hard to detect without a really good ($$$) sniffer.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 11:06 AM
  #6  
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hhott71
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Goor retrofit kit
new accumulator
repair your leaks
add proper amount of oil (AND NO EXTRA OIL)
evacuate and charge to 80% of the R12's capacity.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 09:29 PM
  #7  
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99f350sd
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
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Personally I wouldn't go to 134a I would use the freeze 12 replacement. No need to change anything except fittings and cooler than 134a.. My opinion.

Dick
 

Last edited by 99f350sd; Apr 23, 2006 at 09:39 PM.
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