1990 f250 7.5L.. for those of which said that it'd be a waste of time and money to upgrade the intake with two "short rams," you're compleeeetely wrong i'll post pictures. if you tap the gas, you could hear the air just get sucked right throught the intake and driving at a little less that 2000 rpms, the "short rams" start to have a slight sucking whistle type of sound like the spooling of a small turbo. i'll post pictures later... the rig runs and accelerates like never before

 

it will be in the hot summer in traffic that your heat from the engine compartment will be felt. right now it is still pretty cool, even in california.

 

Could you also explain the system cause I don't understand what you are talking about? More air is always good, does it work for the smaller engines as well or just the 460?

 

yes, of course it works for smaller engines. short ramming a fuel injected motor has been around for awhile now. because no one really makes a complete air intake for my motor (the 460) i had to make my own. k & n only makes a stock filter replacement in the forms of the panel filter and the conical shaped one where both the stock intake hoses would run into. now, i wanted to lose the stock hoses therefore i didnt want the other k & n replament filter. what i did was, the two smaller upper intake hoses (the elbow shaped ones) i left those ONLY attached to the throttle body.. i left one pointing in the direction of where the factory air box would be and one i flipped over and pointed towards the battery. (i removed the smog pump therefore the smog pump air filters where removed from behind the battery leaving an empty area) bought two 2" aluminum pipes and attached at the ends of the upper intake hoses. bought a rubber connector used for pvc piping that attached at the other ends of the alum. pipes. the rubber connecters were 2" in and 3" out. now, the 3" side connected to what is also used in plumbing, the toilet bowl flange (it's the thing for those of which dont know that is directly underneath the toilet). it is 7" diameter. now, i bought two k & n cone filters that ALSO have a 7" base. the toilet flange i got has 6 holes so i had to drill 6 holes through the k & n base plate (metal). bolted and tightened everything up, and YEEHAW :] so yes, two custom made intake liens pointing over both sides of my block. try it if you'd like.. only costs about $100 bucks and wellll worth it. did i explain it okay? btw, for summer time, i could always get a cold-air intake made. on the sides of the radiator, there are two openings (one on each side) that the factory put there. i could re-route my intake lines there along with the filters. i already thought of that too :]

 

Oh it's sucking in hot engine air, I would like to see a picture if you can get them, I wonder if one of those fancy heat sheilds would help any.

 

Oh I thought you ditched your plenum/intake manifold and made two independent ones for each head that would be wicked.

 

plenty of hot air is better than not enough cold air. I'd like to see the pics too.

 

Hot air = better fuel economy

 

wait what? hot air = better fuel econ.? sorry dudes, i'll take pictures today.. digital camera is el-broken ha i'll ****** up someones camera phone or something and get em on here. um, how do i post pictures on this though?

 

Yes hot air is better fuel effiecent due to it cant have as much fuel with it to combust. Cold air means it can have more fuel for combustion. Density is the factor.

 

But isn't hot air kinda bad for your engine?

 

hot air by itself is ok Detonation or pinging is bad for your engine. Hot intake air makes detonation more likely.

 

Cold air intakes are good for power, breathing regular warm air is better for fuel economy. I mean if you have a proper cooling system, breathing warm air even on a hot summer day is fine. I mean, its not hotter than your coolant or block. If hot air was bad, or CAI were all around much better, all vehicles would be desiged with them for how little it costs to add.

 

Sounds like setting it up to use either warm/hot air for fuel economy and cool/cold air for power would be a good idea; switchable, either manually or automatically. Of course we know automatic systems need proving out, and that takes a lot of time.

A butterfly valve to divert the air flow to cold when full throttle is underway, and equipped with a spring to move it back to warm/hot air when the throttle is backed off, since we all would like them to get a little better economy, warm/hot air would be the default choice for normal operation.

A longer intake tube for the warm/hot air side would aid in smoother, more steady, airflow, enhancing engine smoothness and . . . For the cool/cold intake, either a very short tube, or a very large diameter, providing all the air the engine can draw in.

Is it far enough along for marketing yet?

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actually the old ford trucks did something like that. Not based on throttle thou.

The stock air cleaner on my 68 390 had a thermo controlled spring that directed intake air from either exhaust stove pipe or outside air.