Mine are shot, are these easy to find ? and how hard are they to replace ? Is this something I can do at home or should I take it to a shop ?


Thanks

 

I did mine in my drive way. Found them at a local parts store. I would suggest getting the alignment checked after. I think it's a must.

Kris

 

How did you get them out ? Im looking at them and it looks like the whole axle assembly might swing foward ? is this how it is done? I have the Factory manual on CD but it doesnt explain how you get the arms to clear to put the new insulators on, and yes ill proly replace the king pins while im their. then a trip to the alighnment shop. Just didnt want to have to take the entire front end apart.

Thanks

 

It isn't all that hard to drop the complete I beam. There are also a set of bushings at the pivot end of the I beam that should be replaced at the sam time. You will have to disconect the brake lines and be careful dropping the springs. On my 65 there are a set of retaining bars that you have to remove prior to dropping the spring you will also want to remove the shock.

I had a 68 that a friend helped me replace the rubber bushing on the support arms but he did it by cutting the rivets and re-installed them with grade 8 bolts that we loctited in place. Neve had a problem with them. It was a real bear removing those rivets and I would have rather removed the complete I beam. Those bolts were always on my mind when towing my fith wheel with my family on board.

Take your time and pull the complete I beam assembly.

Just my .02 worth

jd

 

Can be somewhat labor intensive, requiring disassemble then reassembling front end. Have a short version from Chilton book may be of some help:

-Raise front of vehile and place stands under frame and a jack under the wheel axle.
-Disconnect shock from radius arm bracket.
-Remove the two springs upper retainer attaching bolts from the top of the upper seat and remove retainer.
-Remove the nut attaching which attaches spring lower retainer to the lower seat and axle and remove retainer.
-Lower axle and remove spring.
-Disconnect steering rod from spindle arm.
-Remove spring lower seat and shim from radius arm. Then, remove nut and bolt that attaches radius arm to axle.
-Remove cotter pin, nut and washer from radius arm rear attachment.
-Remove busing from radius arm rear attachment, and remove arm from truck.
-Remove inner bushing from radius arm.
-Position radius arm to the axle and install bolt and nut finger tight.
-Install the inner busing on the radius arm and position arm to the frame bracket.
continue w/ reassemble.

**Can not recall if the bushings on radius arm to axle are pressed. Installed them at home, if anything, may have used vise/clamp to press them it. After reassembling need to put some torque on the bolts, Chilton does not mention value for 4X2 but believe radius arm to axle around 200 ft. lbs, and radius arm to rear attachment around 100 ft. lbs. Check to confirm these values.
**Word of caution, if need to order part, check with supplier to confirm part(s) in stock, had my truck on blocks for weeks because part was back ordered.
**Once disassembled, parts manageable and good opportunity to farm out any work needed done. Took my I beams and Spindles in have bushings installed. Good luck!
dave

 

They're available in Urethane, too.

 

Thanks for the info , this sounds like way to big a job for me, I have arthritus bad and this would kill my hands. not to mention this is my only driver, so i will need to find a shop to do the work, sounds expencive.
I demand a refund , what kind of slack outfit is Ford runnin over there, LOL just kidding, this is the first front end work this truck has had in 40 years, wonder if a new truck will be able to say that in the year 2046.

 

There is another option. The newer trucks have the cuff that holds the ends of the arms (rubber area) bolted in rather than rivited in. I would consider cutting the rivits, replacing the rubber, and bolting the cuffs back in with grade 8 bolts.

John