435 to C6 swap.
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Junior User
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From: Florida
435 to C6 swap.
I need some helpful tips on how to remove the flexplate bolts.
Tried PB blaster, my impact wrench, cheater bars, even wedged one bar and jack up the other side with a floor jack to see if the weight would cut it-it lifts my engine up..
Close to seeing how cool it would be to see a vehicle explode in person..
Tried PB blaster, my impact wrench, cheater bars, even wedged one bar and jack up the other side with a floor jack to see if the weight would cut it-it lifts my engine up..
Close to seeing how cool it would be to see a vehicle explode in person..
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From: Long Island USA
Maybe they have loc-tite on them.
What would I do ?
Oxy-acetylene torch, on low, just heat the head of the bolt. Some forms of loc-tite (red) are not "service removable", you need heat to break the loc-tite.
They do make "flywheel locks" that you put a bellhousing bolt in, put the lock on the flywheel, and it keeps it from turning.
Never had to use one of those though, I used blue loc-tite when I put mine together
What would I do ?
Oxy-acetylene torch, on low, just heat the head of the bolt. Some forms of loc-tite (red) are not "service removable", you need heat to break the loc-tite.
They do make "flywheel locks" that you put a bellhousing bolt in, put the lock on the flywheel, and it keeps it from turning.
Never had to use one of those though, I used blue loc-tite when I put mine together
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Originally Posted by SwampWalker3
So I'm pretty much screwed for doing this myself? Gotta take it in?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by SwampWalker3
Krewat, thanks for the help. I got those bolts off.
Is there anything I should check to see if it needs replacing while I have the block free of everything?
Is there anything I should check to see if it needs replacing while I have the block free of everything?
Rear main seal, is it leaking?
Oil pan gasket?
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From: Florida
A bigger cheater bar and pushing myself off of the tire.
There is some oil on the back of the engine and on the oil pan, but no drippage. Is it a simple task to do the main seal? The pan looks simple enough.
There is some oil on the back of the engine and on the oil pan, but no drippage. Is it a simple task to do the main seal? The pan looks simple enough.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by SwampWalker3
A bigger cheater bar and pushing myself off of the tire.
There is some oil on the back of the engine and on the oil pan, but no drippage. Is it a simple task to do the main seal? The pan looks simple enough.
There is some oil on the back of the engine and on the oil pan, but no drippage. Is it a simple task to do the main seal? The pan looks simple enough.
Is the engine leaking enough oil to leave behind spots?
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Originally Posted by SwampWalker3
Nope, leave no spots.
It may get worse, you may have rear main-bearing problems afterwards, etc.
It's a "fine art" to get the rear main seal to work right, and if your's isn't leaking like a sieve, leave it alone.
Can you tell if the oil is coming from the seal between the intake and the block in the back?
If it is, it might be time to brake-cleaner it (carefully) and spread RTV all over it.
Anyone care to comment?
art k.
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Count me in with Art...if it's not leaking bad enough to leave oil spots then I'd leave it alone. I'm almost to the point of thinking that the only way an FE doesn't leak at least a little oil is if it's out of oil....LOL.
If the intake is leaking at the rear I don't know how successful you'll be with the RTV fix. I tried this on my engine but it's so difficult get back in there and cleaned good....I ended up pulling my intake and replacing the gasket. If the intake is an aluminum one then I would not use the cork end gaskets. The general consensus is that it's best to just use RTV. I'm so hard headed I had a difficult time changing as I've always used the cork end gaskets...after 4 intake changes, 2 with the cork end gaskets and 2 with just RTV, I finally had my hard head convinced that the RTV alone is the best.
Good Luck!
Tracy
If the intake is leaking at the rear I don't know how successful you'll be with the RTV fix. I tried this on my engine but it's so difficult get back in there and cleaned good....I ended up pulling my intake and replacing the gasket. If the intake is an aluminum one then I would not use the cork end gaskets. The general consensus is that it's best to just use RTV. I'm so hard headed I had a difficult time changing as I've always used the cork end gaskets...after 4 intake changes, 2 with the cork end gaskets and 2 with just RTV, I finally had my hard head convinced that the RTV alone is the best.
Good Luck!
Tracy
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Originally Posted by FalconStng
Count me in with Art...if it's not leaking bad enough to leave oil spots then I'd leave it alone. I'm almost to the point of thinking that the only way an FE doesn't leak at least a little oil is if it's out of oil....LOL.
It is possible to get them to stop leaking.
At least, in the three different FE's I had, I could get one thing to NOT leak, while others still did.
Like the front intake seal would leak, but the rear main and the valve covers wouldn't. Next time, got the intake sealed right, but rear main and valve covers weeped. Next time, got the valve covers, rear main, and intake sealed, but than the oil pan leaked around the dipstick tube like crazy
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
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From: "Islander"
I should remind you that the crossmember just behind the bell housing on a manual transmission truck is riveted to the frame. On a automatic transmission truck that crossmember is bolted in, two bolts per side. To remove the automatic you must unbolt and pound the crossmember out to remove the automatic unless you come out the front after pulling the motor.
It will not come out the bottom as the bell housing will hit.
Krewat, my 95 Disco Rover has zero oil leaks, going on 4 years with a clean painted driveway, same with the Norton's.
.....=o&o>.....
It will not come out the bottom as the bell housing will hit.
Krewat, my 95 Disco Rover has zero oil leaks, going on 4 years with a clean painted driveway, same with the Norton's.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Apr 17, 2006 at 01:55 AM.
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
I should remind you that the crossmember just behind the bell housing on a manual transmission truck is riveted to the frame. On a automatic transmission truck that crossmember is bolted in, two bolts per side. To remove the automatic you must unbolt and pound the crossmember out to remove the automatic unless you come out the front after pulling the motor.
It will not come out the bottom as the bell housing will hit.
Krewat, my 95 Disco Rover has zero oil leaks, going on 4 years with a clean painted driveway, same with the Norton's.
.....=o&o>.....
It will not come out the bottom as the bell housing will hit.
Krewat, my 95 Disco Rover has zero oil leaks, going on 4 years with a clean painted driveway, same with the Norton's.
.....=o&o>.....
I believe there are 4 bolts each side. And the top two on that cross-member are a PITA to get at. At least that's what I remember on my camper special F250. I'd almost rather pull the motor and transmission out the front than fight with that cross-member again :-)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
Getting that crossmember pounded back in is no simple task, a little blood and flesh must be sacrificed.
Greg, did your trucks with automatics still have a bolt in hump like a manual trans trucks? My 68 is that way. Day 42 of 47 with rain here, state flower will become mildew.
.....=o&o>.....
Greg, did your trucks with automatics still have a bolt in hump like a manual trans trucks? My 68 is that way. Day 42 of 47 with rain here, state flower will become mildew.
.....=o&o>.....