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NOOB question on trans removal

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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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NOOB question on trans removal

Hi All.

Newbie here, just got a ford truck as well. It's an older F-250 with a bad flexplate and a bad starter, new ones came with the truck. Question I have is this: How much of a PITA is it to remove a 4X4 trans? I have done quite a few 2WD jobs, both GM and Ford, but never a 4X4. Any comments on this would be appreciated.

thanks.

Brian.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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It sucks.

You will probably have better luck if you drop the t-case entirely. Then it becomes a lot like a 2wd tranny. The t-case doesn't weight as much as you'd think. It's not like the old cast iron ones that weigh 300 lbs dry.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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I took a peek under there, and it looks like the transfer case is attached directly to the trans? If I drop the front and rear driveshats and the crossmember, is there any reason (after unbolting fron the engine, that I couldn't just move the thing a few inches back and replace the flexplate without making an enormous project of it?


b
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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You have to get room for a breaker bar to get the bolts loose on the engine crankshaft, but yes that would work.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 12:50 AM
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something about the idea of a tranny hanging above me while trying to break those bolts loose just wouldn't excite me... i'd just get the darn thing outta there. just my 2 cents
 
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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the last one I did with the transfer case attached I ended up using three floor jacks to support the tranny and case it's really an unbalanced load (the tranfer case is trying to twist the tranny) if you have some way to support it it works but it's a bugger removing the tranfer case is no big deal
 
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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So I should remeove the Transfer case first, then the trans from the motor?

b
 
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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the floorboards will not give you enuf room to pull it back. Drop the t-case, then tranny. If you have enuf patience, drop the crossmember, but beware that that is a PITA to put back in. If yer just talking the thin metal plate between the trans and engine, I'd just cut the bent part out pound it flat and put it back in...this is what shims the starter. If the flywheel teeth are stripped, you can but a replacement ring for a bit cheaper than the whole thing.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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It might be easier to pull the motor, and have total access to the flywheel/flexplate.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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Well I ended up just moving the trans back and replacing the flywheel. I reinstalled the trans, put a new starter in there, and it seems like the flywheel is too small. The start gear does not engage the flywheel correctly and it squeals like a bi*ch. Also, it seems like this flywheel has a different offset and is smushing the converter into the trans as it's hard to turn. And yes, I did make sure (a few times) that the converter was all the way back.

How far should the converter move back from the flywheel when it's unbolted?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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It will usually move back just far enough to almost clear the studs...almost.

Did you compare flexplates before you exchanged them? Did you use an stick shift starter instead of an automatic version (this changes over time)?.

It sounds like something isn't right...you should go back to ground -0- and compare the parts you replaced.

Kenny
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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No I didn't compare them, and that is where I messed up. I did push the trans back and shim it back about 1/8 with washers and it fires right up, so my guess is that the flexplate has a different back spacing. I did buy a new one, and it is a copy of the old one. Lesson learned.

Working on cars is like Al Pacino described being in the mafia: You try to get out, and get dragged right back in....
 
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