Shifting into reverse is not smooth.
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Shifting into reverse is not smooth.
My newly acquired 93 aero sport, 130,000 miles, feels like it's trying to self destruct when I put it into reverse. It feels like a big impact wrench, and sometimes it's kinda loud as all the slop gets used up and metal hits metal(or something) I don't know much about how transmissions work/shift so I don't have a clue how to address this.
Anybody have any ideas?
oh yeah, if it matters I recently dropped the transmission pan to install a temperature sending unit and replaced the filter and whatever fluid fell out of the pan. I'm aware that most of the fluid was still stuck in the torque converter, I just haven’t "gentle flushed" it yet. But this hard shifting was happening before I dropped the pan, so it didn’t get any better or worse when I messed with it.
Anybody have any ideas?
oh yeah, if it matters I recently dropped the transmission pan to install a temperature sending unit and replaced the filter and whatever fluid fell out of the pan. I'm aware that most of the fluid was still stuck in the torque converter, I just haven’t "gentle flushed" it yet. But this hard shifting was happening before I dropped the pan, so it didn’t get any better or worse when I messed with it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
#2. Main control assembly gaskets damaged or bolt out of torque
not common especially when only one gear is affected....usually blown gasket or loose valve body bolts cause multiple symtoms
fairly easy to retorque valve body bolts...drop tranny pan...start from middle and work out to edge
96 pounds inch w torque wrench, use a 3/8" break or digital style torque wrench, this is pounds inch which is 6 lbs ft
be careful removing bolts, 5 different lengths used in valve body, will cause damage if put in wrong holes
while you are under the rig, replace vacuum modulator, they fail often from exhaust heat breakdown and cause numerous problems, can damage engine and tranny, cheap insurance
if you have the 4L, remember to replace the modulator heat shield, many are left off, makes tranny shops lots of money from failed modulators, cooked Mercon and failed trannys
not common especially when only one gear is affected....usually blown gasket or loose valve body bolts cause multiple symtoms
fairly easy to retorque valve body bolts...drop tranny pan...start from middle and work out to edge
96 pounds inch w torque wrench, use a 3/8" break or digital style torque wrench, this is pounds inch which is 6 lbs ft
be careful removing bolts, 5 different lengths used in valve body, will cause damage if put in wrong holes
while you are under the rig, replace vacuum modulator, they fail often from exhaust heat breakdown and cause numerous problems, can damage engine and tranny, cheap insurance
if you have the 4L, remember to replace the modulator heat shield, many are left off, makes tranny shops lots of money from failed modulators, cooked Mercon and failed trannys
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Apr 12, 2006 at 02:53 PM.
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It's a 3.0. I may give that a shot. Also, I was looking around on the net and saw a thread on a different forum where the guy was documenting his A4LD rebuild. Towards the beginning of the teardown he says:
"One problem area that can be easily fixed with the transmission in the car is the low/reverse servo leakage problem - the delayed engagement in drive or reverse and the "jerk" on engagment
Does this sound correct?
Last night after reading about other tranny problems, I pulled the vacuum line on the modulator to check for fluid and it was dry. As suggested, I might replace it anyways just to see what happens.
I guess I should probably buy a smaller torque wrench, I've got a cheap one but it's the bending kind and it's at least a couple feet long.
Thanks for the help. I’ll keep you posted. Unfortunately I won’t be able to do any work on the van for about a week, give or take a few days.
"One problem area that can be easily fixed with the transmission in the car is the low/reverse servo leakage problem - the delayed engagement in drive or reverse and the "jerk" on engagment
Does this sound correct?
Last night after reading about other tranny problems, I pulled the vacuum line on the modulator to check for fluid and it was dry. As suggested, I might replace it anyways just to see what happens.
I guess I should probably buy a smaller torque wrench, I've got a cheap one but it's the bending kind and it's at least a couple feet long.
Thanks for the help. I’ll keep you posted. Unfortunately I won’t be able to do any work on the van for about a week, give or take a few days.
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