Alum wheels
#17
That clear coat is usually a Polyurethane base paint, I would sand down polish with 2000 grit then clearcoat touch up. If the clear doesn't blend out good, sand lightly and clear the whole wheel. I have clear over gray aluminum wheels, did all 4 that had weights pounded on now look like new with stick-on weights on the back side. For $327 replacement a wheel a weekends labor was worth it. You might want to check into companies that reglaze wheels.
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#18
or another option, try to get remanufactured wheels, they do still tend to be costy, but a little cheaper than the stealership.... I ordered a wheel from www.transwheels.com, when I had a front tire explode on the highway and bent the bead ring. The tire held air but I didn't feel comfortable using that wheel all the time so I use it as a spare. The wheel was like a new from the factory. I think they get wheels off wrecks, mods, or get them and referbish them. just though I would give you another idea.... you can also check out ebay but use caution! good luck!
#19
I've removed the clear coat because of some terrible pitting off of some ford alloys I purchased for my pickup with a stripper for metals and alloys that I bought at an Ace Hardware store and steel wool. This was some nasty stuff that burned on the skin after about 30 seconds but I wore some rubber gloves that when up to my elbows and scrubbed them with steel wool.
They came out very, very nice but I would never go through that experience again. I'll pay the extra money for nicer wheels before I spend an entire weekend on them.
They came out very, very nice but I would never go through that experience again. I'll pay the extra money for nicer wheels before I spend an entire weekend on them.
#20
Any one have a cure to stop it from spreading?
That was my original question. Never did get a answer that really dealt with it. But since I just couldn't get over it I decided to look at it again. A little scraping on the wheel with a knife, a few minutes with Mothers Mag and Alum polish, well what do you know. It looks pretty good. Thanks to all you good people out there that encouraged me to look for the cure. I'm satisfied.
That was my original question. Never did get a answer that really dealt with it. But since I just couldn't get over it I decided to look at it again. A little scraping on the wheel with a knife, a few minutes with Mothers Mag and Alum polish, well what do you know. It looks pretty good. Thanks to all you good people out there that encouraged me to look for the cure. I'm satisfied.
#24
#26
I can see new tires wearing round from new needing a corrective rebalance after 5 or 6 K miles but every 6K is a waste of money unless you had a flat then added a patch which will cause a out balance condition or a flat spot from locking up. I have a shoe to spin up tires on the truck, once rebalanced they stay balanced until bald. Once dynamic balanced I rebalance after the first 5K miles on a home made balancer for motorcycle wheels with a 1" axle zero balanced with a disc brake hub. (200 mph at Daytona use the same type of balancer for bikes). It will detect a plastic valve core cap and go out of balance, close enough for a daily driver and better than any dynamic at any tire shop.
If they (tire shop) use a adjustable spyder it will be a shaker from linkage slop, with a cone the rim has different lip flashing on the inside of the hole to cause it to become mounted excentric on the cone, both will cause a shaker besides a waste of your money. This becomes a true balanced system only if all hubs and drums on the vehicle are zero balanced before you install balanced wheel / tires assemblies.
Manual steering is alot more sensitive to a out of balance condition than power steering, been doing it this way for 34 plus years over 900K miles on my own, over 1 million miles if you include tire shop balances and mine are better. It works for me and cheaper, just add a little time and labor.
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If they (tire shop) use a adjustable spyder it will be a shaker from linkage slop, with a cone the rim has different lip flashing on the inside of the hole to cause it to become mounted excentric on the cone, both will cause a shaker besides a waste of your money. This becomes a true balanced system only if all hubs and drums on the vehicle are zero balanced before you install balanced wheel / tires assemblies.
Manual steering is alot more sensitive to a out of balance condition than power steering, been doing it this way for 34 plus years over 900K miles on my own, over 1 million miles if you include tire shop balances and mine are better. It works for me and cheaper, just add a little time and labor.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; 04-30-2006 at 11:33 PM.
#28
No worries on what others think JMO's be it harsh. Just my way of how I run my equipment, not the half a$$ way the general public gets their vehicles hashed up and pay good money for. About a year ago a friend paid for two 12.00 x 33 x 16.5 tires mounted and balanced on a adjustable spider, they said the rims were 1/4" out of round and balanced them anyway.
Shaker city for $68, remounted on lugs and they spun like tops with very little weight added. Later mounted on a front axle and spun with the shoe to correct for lateral imbalance.
Harley's, I won't hold that against you, I run BMW's Norton's and Matchless thumpers (500 and 600). Weathers getting better ride safe.
Cheers.....=o&o>.....
Shaker city for $68, remounted on lugs and they spun like tops with very little weight added. Later mounted on a front axle and spun with the shoe to correct for lateral imbalance.
Harley's, I won't hold that against you, I run BMW's Norton's and Matchless thumpers (500 and 600). Weathers getting better ride safe.
Cheers.....=o&o>.....
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r_reed
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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10-25-2007 12:55 PM