6.9 cold starting problems
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Oregon
6.9 cold starting problems
Hey guys,
I have a 87 6.9 with 116k on it. The truck runs great as soon as I can get it running. I just replaced the glow plugs a few months ago trying to cure this problem. When it is cold, it will fire right up and run for about 5 to 10 seconds before dieing. Then it won't start. I have been able to get it started by pluging the heater in and useing a little starting ether. It seems to me like it is a fuel problem. I am going to replace the fuel and air filter today in hopes of an easy fix, as I don't know how long they have been in there.
What do you guys think the problem is? Any suggestions are appreciated as this is my rig I take riding every weekend and need it starting by next weekend.
Thanks
Lars
I have a 87 6.9 with 116k on it. The truck runs great as soon as I can get it running. I just replaced the glow plugs a few months ago trying to cure this problem. When it is cold, it will fire right up and run for about 5 to 10 seconds before dieing. Then it won't start. I have been able to get it started by pluging the heater in and useing a little starting ether. It seems to me like it is a fuel problem. I am going to replace the fuel and air filter today in hopes of an easy fix, as I don't know how long they have been in there.
What do you guys think the problem is? Any suggestions are appreciated as this is my rig I take riding every weekend and need it starting by next weekend.
Thanks
Lars
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
Check the fuel return lines on the injectors. if they are painted gray. Replace with new lines and clamps. They crack after a long time but will not leak fuel out but will allow air in. Also replace lines going to fuel filter. If this doesn't cure it. Check your fuel lines on the frame for corrosion. Especially behind those white frame clamps. I found this was my problem last year. Cut off the line and replace with hose and clamps to bypass the bad spot. I checked and the fuel lines are no longer available. Hope this helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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You have classic signs of an air leak in the fuel system. This allows fuel to drain back from the injector pump while the vehicle is parked. As advised check pipes and unions. Also check water trap(if fitted) these can leak. Unfortunately it is much harder to find where air is leaking in rather than fuel leaking out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
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From: Ladner, British Columbia
Sure sounds like air leaks into the fuel system during engine cool down. This typically only happens during cold starting. The truck should start normally and not stall from a warm start unless you have a really bad air leak which at that point should show up also as a fuel leak.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Ladner, British Columbia
Air leaks from cracked and old rubber fuel and fuel return lines are common on all IDI, does not matter if it is a turbo or not.
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Senior User
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From: Oregon
thanks guys I found a possable point were it is leaking. There is diesel leaking onto the top of the motor(very little amount). It is one of the rubber lines that goes between the injectors. Can I just replace it, and it will start, or do I have to be carefull to not let any air in the system?
Thanks for all the help.
Lars
Thanks for all the help.
Lars
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
While you are at it, get a return line O ring set and replace them while you are replacing the fuel lines. If you don't, as soon as you get the lines replaced, the O rings will start leaking. You need 16 O rings, I always get a couple of extras incase I drop or tear one or two.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Oregon
Thanks again everybody!
So should I just replace the rubber lines going between the injectors? Or do you guys think I need to replace the metal lines as well? Should I use the same type of clamps that are on there for the rubber lines or should I get better hose clamps?
Thanks in advance
Lars
So should I just replace the rubber lines going between the injectors? Or do you guys think I need to replace the metal lines as well? Should I use the same type of clamps that are on there for the rubber lines or should I get better hose clamps?
Thanks in advance
Lars
Glad to hear everything is going well. 
Keep on truckin
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