Aerostar overheated
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 16
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From: Fairbanks,AK
Aerostar overheated
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Hi,
I have a 94 ford aerostar with a 4.0 that was driven while overheated and the motor seized up. I fixed the problem that caused it to overheat and now it won't start. There is about 3 quarts too much oil in the crankcase and can't tell if antifreeze is in it or not. It looks like oil to me. While cranking the engine over the cooling system seems to presurize and antifreeze comes out of the radiator. I haven't pulled any plugs yet so don't know if anything is comming out of the spark plug holes. If my problem is a head gasket shouldn't the van start anyway? Please help.
Hi,
I have a 94 ford aerostar with a 4.0 that was driven while overheated and the motor seized up. I fixed the problem that caused it to overheat and now it won't start. There is about 3 quarts too much oil in the crankcase and can't tell if antifreeze is in it or not. It looks like oil to me. While cranking the engine over the cooling system seems to presurize and antifreeze comes out of the radiator. I haven't pulled any plugs yet so don't know if anything is comming out of the spark plug holes. If my problem is a head gasket shouldn't the van start anyway? Please help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
run only pure water in cooling system until you get the engine overheating/seize problem resolved....antifreeze/glycol kills spark plugs, rings, rod and crank bearings, camshafts, O2 sensors and cat. converters...no use making the problem worse
drain oil and flush out pan with a couple gallons of diesel...let it set in cold engine, don't run, for couple hours, put a clean drain pan under pan and let it drain and drip out overnight with fill cap off...look for water in drain pan in morning from engine leaks....fill with fresh low cost 10w30 the next day if no water in pan
pull plugs, look for melted insulators and tips, common in overheating
change spark plug wires, usually melt when engine severely overheats and locks up
EDIS system including coil pack may be damaged from severe overheating, check for spark at plugs
fuel injectors may be damaged from severe engine overheating
that will get you started
drain oil and flush out pan with a couple gallons of diesel...let it set in cold engine, don't run, for couple hours, put a clean drain pan under pan and let it drain and drip out overnight with fill cap off...look for water in drain pan in morning from engine leaks....fill with fresh low cost 10w30 the next day if no water in pan
pull plugs, look for melted insulators and tips, common in overheating
change spark plug wires, usually melt when engine severely overheats and locks up
EDIS system including coil pack may be damaged from severe overheating, check for spark at plugs
fuel injectors may be damaged from severe engine overheating
that will get you started
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
From: Wichita
Is the oil milky? That's the most obvious indication of water in the oil. That 3 qts of something has to come from somewhere. Is it fuel?
Sounds like engine compression is building up in the cooling system. I'd guess a headgasket or cracked block.
Sounds like engine compression is building up in the cooling system. I'd guess a headgasket or cracked block.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
no problems, always do both sides=1 day
but waste of money and time if heads aren't cleaned and magnefluxed along with a valve regrind and new valve seals
have to use new head bolts, Ford 4L uses torque to stretch one time use head bolts...old ones can NOT be reused...about $40 for a full set
frozen broken head bolts and/or exh. manifold bolts....indeterminate
soak exhaust man. bolts with PB or other good penetrating oil and let set overnight....give another shot and remove....tighten first slightly and then loosen....breaks the rust joint loose...do on cold engine only when cast iron manifold has shrank back down
but waste of money and time if heads aren't cleaned and magnefluxed along with a valve regrind and new valve seals
have to use new head bolts, Ford 4L uses torque to stretch one time use head bolts...old ones can NOT be reused...about $40 for a full set
frozen broken head bolts and/or exh. manifold bolts....indeterminate
soak exhaust man. bolts with PB or other good penetrating oil and let set overnight....give another shot and remove....tighten first slightly and then loosen....breaks the rust joint loose...do on cold engine only when cast iron manifold has shrank back down
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Apr 10, 2006 at 03:01 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
From: Wichita
There's a lot of crap to take off and access is terrible. I don't think a novice could do this in a day!
I also recommend doing both heads.
In fact, being a pessimist I would just pull the engine to work on the heads.
I also recommend doing both heads.
In fact, being a pessimist I would just pull the engine to work on the heads.
- It's much easier to work on, you probably should do a mini-overhaul anyway (timing set, water pump etc)
- When you find out it's the block you are that much further along
