EZ Wiring
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Senior User
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From: Santa Cruz
EZ Wiring
So I'm finally going to stop procrastinating and attempt to wire up my 56 F-100 with the EZ Wiring kit I bought. I was wondering if this diagram I found on the forums accurately represents what all the connections on the headlight switch go to?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=21674&.jpg
Also any other tips as far as wiring this thing from scratch would be much appreciated! Thanks
Craig
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=21674&.jpg
Also any other tips as far as wiring this thing from scratch would be much appreciated! Thanks
Craig
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,002
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From: Midland, Texas
Craig....
I essentially asked a similar question a few weeks ago. I have started the installation based on the advise offered. I'm still in the middle of this as gardening chores and other life events interfere with my truck time. I'm no expert but have great confidence now as I move along.
First, remove all of your old wiring after identifying the posts on your switches. Second, follow the EZ instructions as far as they take you. Third, when you hit a snag, post a question. The expertise and generousity of our fellow board members is incredible.
Ron even sent me an article from rod and custom that really helped my understanding of how Ford and GM differ. (My only other brief pass at wiring was a '55 Chevy over 40 years ago.)
good luck, himmelberg
I essentially asked a similar question a few weeks ago. I have started the installation based on the advise offered. I'm still in the middle of this as gardening chores and other life events interfere with my truck time. I'm no expert but have great confidence now as I move along.
First, remove all of your old wiring after identifying the posts on your switches. Second, follow the EZ instructions as far as they take you. Third, when you hit a snag, post a question. The expertise and generousity of our fellow board members is incredible.
Ron even sent me an article from rod and custom that really helped my understanding of how Ford and GM differ. (My only other brief pass at wiring was a '55 Chevy over 40 years ago.)
good luck, himmelberg
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From: S.C.
Your headlight diagram should be the same as the EZ wire instructions. I used EZ wires and went by the instructions that came with the kit everything went great. If they have wires for stuff you don't have just roll & stow them. You can also go to painless wiring's website they had a lot of diagrams on there.
Jaye
Jaye
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From: Santa Cruz
Well I got a lot of the wiring routed and connected today. I'm just unsure of a few points and was wondering what you guys might have to say about it. 1) In the wiring diagram the 10 guage solenoid power wire requires an included "fusible link" wire to be attached. This wire is just a 3 inch 16 guage wire; is it simply there to burn up if too much current comes off the solenoid and protect the fuse panel? 2) I have a 100 amp Summit racing single wire alternator. The kit says to install a seperate bypass wire from the alternator to the solenoid if using an 80+ amp alternator. Do I still connect the alternator power wire from the harness? Or will the system just get power from the bypass wire? 3) Lastly, I'm unsure of how the pressure brake light switch is wired in this application. Factory there was a wire from the headlight switch down to the brakelight switch and then from the brakelight switch to the rear taillights. In the kit there's a brakelight power wire and brakelight switch wire. Do both of these just end up going to the switch? One for each prong? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Craig
http://www.evil-wheels.com
Craig
http://www.evil-wheels.com
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From: Kansas City area
A one wire alternator just takes "one" wire. Wire it like the alternator mfg says. You are correct on the 16 ga fusible link. On the brake light switch just wire it using the power wire in your kit, nothing from the headlights. The power goes to one terminal and from the other terminal to your taillights.
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: london, ontario
i used the same kit. on my 69 it worked ok. just watch when you pull out the fuses. mine takes the metal out of the fuse panel with it. i ran the fusible link on the red from the starter sel going to the fuse panel.
i also ran the bypass. my alt is 80 amp and i figured why not. it has worked on 2 trucks for 3 years till today it melted. the brakelight switch goes to the wheel harness then to the lights. if you have trouble with the key i'll look for my diagram of what goes where.
gl
mark
ps it shouldn't take more than 2 cases of beer to do the whole truck.
i also ran the bypass. my alt is 80 amp and i figured why not. it has worked on 2 trucks for 3 years till today it melted. the brakelight switch goes to the wheel harness then to the lights. if you have trouble with the key i'll look for my diagram of what goes where.
gl
mark
ps it shouldn't take more than 2 cases of beer to do the whole truck.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 692
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From: Gatesville, TX
Originally Posted by blitzkraig56
Well I got a lot of the wiring routed and connected today. I'm just unsure of a few points and was wondering what you guys might have to say about it. 1) In the wiring diagram the 10 guage solenoid power wire requires an included "fusible link" wire to be attached. This wire is just a 3 inch 16 guage wire; is it simply there to burn up if too much current comes off the solenoid and protect the fuse panel? Yes 2) I have a 100 amp Summit racing single wire alternator. The kit says to install a seperate bypass wire from the alternator to the solenoid if using an 80+ amp alternator. Do I still connect the alternator power wire from the harness? Connect both wires Or will the system just get power from the bypass wire? 3) Lastly, I'm unsure of how the pressure brake light switch is wired in this application. Factory there was a wire from the headlight switch down to the brakelight switch and then from the brakelight switch to the rear taillights. In the kit there's a brakelight power wire and brakelight switch wire. Do both of these just end up going to the switch? One for each prong? Yes one wire on each prong Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Craig
http://www.evil-wheels.com
Craig
http://www.evil-wheels.com
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Hey man, congrats on the wiring kit!! BUT fusible links are a BAD idea!!!! I never use them on anything I wire. I always use a Maxi fuse close to the starter relay and then if it blows you can just replace it, instead of crawling under the truck! They work just fine, I've wired alot of cars and trucks!
GOOD luck!!!
GOOD luck!!!
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From: Harpswell Maine
Originally Posted by LEckart
A one wire alternator just takes "one" wire. Wire it like the alternator mfg says. You are correct on the 16 ga fusible link. On the brake light switch just wire it using the power wire in your kit, nothing from the headlights. The power goes to one terminal and from the other terminal to your taillights.
Does all of this make sense?
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Yes it makes sense, but I would NOT run an ammeter at all!! If they short out, you can have serious problems, It can burn down your truck or at least kill your alternator. If I were you, I'd just not connect the ammeter at all. You dont' have to have a volt meter, you can get by without one? But they dont use them anymore!! They are definately dangerous, especially since it's 50 years old!!
I just hate to see you get everything else done and have a problem there that could burn down your truck? Hope this helps.
I just hate to see you get everything else done and have a problem there that could burn down your truck? Hope this helps.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
I agree that I would not want to run the amperage through the internals of an ammeter. My original 49 ammeter however is the induction style. There are no terminals. Current does not pass thru the ammeter. There is simply a loop on the back of the ammeter that the uninterupted insulated wire passes thru. In my case that is the power supply coming from the terminal post on the solonoid that is the power supply for the EZ wiring fuse panel. The original ford ammeter uses the same principal that is used in clamp on ammeters used in the electrical industry to trouble shoot. The current passing thru the insulated wire creates a field that is then measured by the ammeter. I do plan to upgrade the EZ wiring setup by replacing the fusible link with a mixi fuse located near the starter solonoid.
Last edited by 49willard; Dec 13, 2007 at 03:18 PM.
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From: Santa Cruz
Yup, yer right. It's been running for quite some time now. Here's a pic with me dad and brother, and my 'kid' <img src ="http://www.eridani.us/wiki/images/thumb/b/b1/11287bd4d4f.JPG/800px-11287bd4d4f.JPG">
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