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89 351w
Ever since I bought my bronco I have always had to push a button to start it after I have the key on. I have grown to like it cause it is a car jackers night meir. if someone takes my truck at gun point. I would just turn it off and hand them the keys and start running. They would never get it started.
Anyway, What should I be looking at to solve this problem? I thought I was going to fix it a year ago when my reverse lights did not work, so I thought that when I change my neutral safety swith out it might also fix the starting problem. Well it fixed the reverse lights but not the key start.
The way it is rigged up is shorting the two wires that are connected to the solinoid by the battery.
So your saying that when billy bad guy is pointing a handgun at your head, and in his half wit junkie voice says get the hell out of the Bronco, your going to say....."oh wait, its better if I shut the truck off and give you my ring of keys", instead of just getting out and letting him/her drive away?
I dont know about you, but the last thing I would want to do is get shot in the face over a Bronco.
As for your problem......it sounds to me like the ignition switch (not the key switch) in the steering column is shot...or the starter relay, not the solenoid (the starter solenoid is right next to the starter) is where your problem is.
Just use the search function here and you will get a much better idea of what you need to do.
Are you saying that the button jumps the two BIG wires on the solenoid on the driver's inner fender together to start the truck? WOW! That's gotta be one HELLUVA pushbutton you've got there. The starter motor draws at least 80 amps if not more. Its surpirising that the pushbutton has lasted if its really set up that way. If that is indeed the case, the solenoid would be the first course of action.
Are you saying that the button jumps the two BIG wires on the solenoid on the driver's inner fender together to start the truck? WOW! That's gotta be one HELLUVA pushbutton you've got there. The starter motor draws at least 80 amps if not more. Its surpirising that the pushbutton has lasted if its really set up that way. If that is indeed the case, the solenoid would be the first course of action.
Yep thats the way it is set up. Its been working that way over two years. I can follow the wire from my dash all the way to the solenoid. It is the thick clear coated speaker wire made of copper.
Oh one more thing. when I turn my key to the start position.. it kills the radio and the amps on my batter guage goes down as if it is putting a charge to something, but it it not making it to the starter. What could this mean?
sounds like maybe the blue/red start wire thats supposed to engage that solinoid behind the battery maybe shorted to ground. If that proves to be the case i'd just run a new one. As for the Getto rigging, if you just switched +12v from the battery input side of the solinoid to the small terminal thats supposed to get the low current +12v signal from the ignition, that would activate the soliniod too without pulling a huge amount of current through a little switch.
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