Wow, glad to hear that. do you have any plans for the old ones? maybe sell them to my Diesel tech teacher if they are cheap enough? i was talking with him today as i was on here in school and i told him to register here and browse around. he also told me a very wicked injector secret that will make stock-type injectors flow over 300cc with the same oil pressure as stock. but i need to replace my rods before i do that.

 

Kris the core charge is $100.00 per injector. I've sent them back already.

 

Oh NO!....CANNON injectors!

 

Cool, an injector mod please share the details. Damn, that's the PMS talking again.

 

Yes, please do tell

Congrats Kwik, happying towing this summer

 

May your spray pattern always remain strong. You`ve been waiting a while to get those injectors, it`s great to see a strong change in your truck to justify the cost of those.

 

That's good news Dan. Sounds like I will be doing that when The funds allow, and fuel system mods are done. Man, I' m going to have to buy the wife a freakin' new car to make up for all this stuff.

 

Great Job!!!! Buy yourself a beer Kwik and while you are drinkikng it down plan a trip out to New Mexico and help me do mine,....

 

Don't know, but look here instead. Near the bottom of the page. I am going to fab up my own stuff. Skipping the in-tank mods for the most part. I used the instructions for the how to on my ideas. Trying to sump mine w/out the $200 billet item. Frustrating time with Jegs today, but I'm about 90% solution now. Hopefully sometime next week.

On Edit: don't get this wrong, not Jegs fault. Anytime you fabricate you have trouble assembling everything that will work. Having a gasket issue right now.

 

You can't tease us like that and not share. So what's the deal?

 

Nice write up Dan.

How long did it actually take from the time you ordered them until they arrived? It's only been a week for me, but I'm already getting antsy. Especially since your description of the "old injector" sound very closely matches what mine is doing.

 

Scott, not to sound pompous, I've not done the injector replacement. Here are my thoughts based on Kwikk's post:

Could you suck/syphon the oil out of the HPO rail in the head after removing a plug like the one commonly used for the HPX, or one of the lines. And:

Same for fuel rails at each of rear ports in order to minimize some of the mess after install in evacuating the cylinders?

Just thought these might work to make it a little bit easier or reduce some mess.

On edit: of course I'm referring to doing this before removal of anything from the heads.

 

Thank you Scott.
They took about three weeks to arrive. I called on a monday to order them, they said that they would need a few days just to get to them. I assume they are VERY busy, which is good for them. I assumed that they would send them out that friday. The next week rolls around and when the following friday arrived I called them to get a tracking number and they told me that they "just went out". They gave me a tracking number and it wasn't scheduled to arrive for ANOTHER week. I had to wait some more.
But they are in now and the difference in performance and sound is phenominal. No more hammering and the slightest application of the throttle keeps me cruisin' along. It used to require a lot more pedal to keep going.
And a noticable increase in power at mid throttle settings. WOT is the same, or if I had to admit to a difference in power it would be very slightly increased.

So now gentlemen, (and ladies if present) those of you who have replaced your injectors before: how long does it take the HPOP rails to completly purge themselves of air? I'm still hearing evidence of air in the rails after driving for two days worth of errands and commuting for a total of about 50 miles. I'll get a miss at light throttle settings right after a long coast and then reapply the throttle with a very light setting, just cruising along in traffic. If I give it more throttle then it clears out and runs on all 8. Or it will miss at idle for a long time. It reminds me of trying to get air bubbles out of a collapsed lifter. You just have to drive it out.

 

Sure you could, you would need to use the rearmost ports for each since the engine slopes to the rear when parked on level ground. I think the easiest, and probably fastest method would be to pull the rear injectors like Kwik did, then use the vacuum through the injector or glow plug holes to pull the fluid off the top of the cylinders.

That's my plan anyways. Save's me from having to wheel the big ***** over by hand that way.

 

Kwikk, the same way I theorized about syphoning the fluids out, might it be beneficial to put fresh oil into the HPO fittings on the heads until it runs out to reduce the purge time?