I have a 1972 f100 with an older 351 w can I swap the fmx for an aod from 87 f150 and what do I change or keep

 

Is the aod bolted to a 302? and is the 87 engine carberated? Because I think the aod sifts using a cable mounted on the gas petal linkage.

 

I've done this swap, it works great but it's not as easy or as cheap as it sounds. Make sure you get all the linkages and the "TV" cable from the donor truck. I made a bracket to fit my Edelbrock carb to acctuate the TV cable
(TV cable makes the aod shift and must be adjusted properly).
You will most likely have to have a driveshaft made or yours modified.
I took the bell crank out of the newer truck and modified it so that I could still use my column shift. But you could install a shifter on the floor.
You will have to move the trans crossmember and have a speedo cable made with the correct ends on it.
Last but not least you will probably want to change your rear end gears. I just went to 411's.

It took me a while to figure all this out but now that it's done I love it.

 

any tips on adjusting the tv cable, I thought it was the kickdown.... crossmember already set up for it.... working on the drive shaft and its about done, but I have the oem 2 barrel carb will that work or hurt?......did you use your old flywheel or the one from the doner truck? any help greatly needed, good choice on the rear gear with that overdrive I think!!

 

I used an "86" engine and a "92" trans so I think the flexplates are the same.
You should probably use the flexplate for your engine, don't want to throw off your balance.
As far as the tv cable, take it to a good trans shop when you're done .
The 2v carb should be alright as long as you can fashion a bracket to let your carb linkage accuate the cable correctly. Some other ford vehichles had the cable go directly to the accelorator pedal if that is easier for you.
Good Luck.
Mike.

p.s. I'll be on vacation for the rest of the week, but if you have anymore questions I'll get back to you next Monday.

 

Buckethead, I was out of town and did not get your e-mail untill today, but it looks like you got some good replies. mcdobson seems to know what you are doing. Good luck.

 

thank you! I had to find a flywheel off a later model but still remain in the balance time frame, due to the change in torque converters (converter too skinny, did not want to seat properly) pulled one off of a 78 351w!!!!! if its still short, can the flywheel be shimmed? I do appreciate the input you have have already given!

 

If you are thinking of shimming the flywheel away from the crank, that would take it back away from the starter. I'm not sure how it would work to shim between the TC and the flywheel, to get the TC into the trans more.

 

You need to use the converter from the aod. You should not have to shim anything.
After bolting the engine and trans together the converter should be able to move a little towards the engine to meet the flexplate.
Mike.

 

What about the old column shifter? Doesn’t the AOD need an extra spot for the overdrive D?

 

The earlier vehicles that had an AOD that were carbureted or had TBI used a T.V. rod.
Vehicles that had Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection used a cable instead of a rod. Aftermarket T.V. cables are available from Total Performance or Windsor-Fox.com

Here's an excerpt from a manual on how to adjust throttle valve pressure using a trans gauge attached to the T.V. port...


You will need to install your gauge into the TV test port on the transmission. The port is eight inch pipe thread, and is located on the passenger side of the transmission. Toward the back of the transmission, above the pan rail you will find two 7/16" headed pipe plugs side by side. One plug is level with the outer edge of the pan rail, and the other plug is recessed. The recessed plug is the TV test port. Since this port is recessed, you may not see it if you are looking straight up from under the transmission, you will have to try to see over the pan rail.

Remove the TV test plug and install the fitting for your gauge. Attach the line from your gauge to the fitting in the test port. With the engine running the gauge should read 0 to 5 pounds at idle. If you happen to have the special tool for testing TV pressure (installs on the ball end of the cable to pull it a measured amount), the reading on the gauge should be approximately 30 psi with the tool installed. If you don't have the special tool you can tape the gauge to the outside of your windshield with the numbers facing in and have an assistant ride with you to watch the gauge. Normal acceleration from a stop should produce around 30 psi. You also want to make sure that as soon as you start to apply throttle, the gauge reading begins to rise. This is a good indication that there is no slack in the cable. If you would like you can also check the WOT pressure with the gauge mounted this way, it should read around 85 psi.

 

actually I got the tranny installed hooked everything up and was ready to go, sawpped gears!!!!! and low and behold the DAMN THING WAS BLOWN F@#& ME IF I WASNT MAD, but im working on something just to get her running again, but I do appreciate the input! never even got a chance to test her out!

 

What was blown up? The trans?

 

yeah the tranny!!! what can you do, what do you expect from a tranny from the junk yard!

 

They're an easy trans to rebuild. The only thing you really is a lip seal protector set and an overhaul kit. This trans, unlike the earlier ford trannys, utilizes lip seals instead of square cut seals.
Theoretically, you could overhaul it for under $200 including fluid if there are no hard parts broken. Hard parts are cheap used, too.