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My heater seems to work in 2 modes: Off and "Cook the occupants".
My fan blows at different speeds. But there seems to be little difference in temperature by moving the temp control from hot to cold. I thought my old 68 would at least blow ambient temperature air when set to cold. But with my 69, if the heater or defrost is on, it's hot. Too hot for Texas 360 days of the year. I find myself balancing between the open vents, windows and the rear sliding window to get a tolerable temperature and a defogged windshield.
There is a valve that controls the flow of heated coolant from the engine to the heater core inside the truck the valve is in one of the heater hoses under the hood sometimes the inside of the valve the part that actually controlls the flow of collant gets rusted to the point that it will not close at all and i have seen them be compleately rusted out on the inside and the valve seem to be moveing just fine but not closeing at all this is where i would start first.I hope this helps
I recently replaced that valve with a newer plastic style valve. I need to adjust the cable to it get the valve completely opening and closing. That may be the problem. But, I think I had it working last year and it was still hot all of the time.
I have the plastic valve also- mine will cook you out, too. I found the temp to be tolerable when you barely crack the valve open. I use a manual choke cable as my dash unit has locked up. For me, its just the way it is- there is no adjustment.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Oct-02 AT 11:01 PM (EST)]I remember seeing a Ford service note a long time ago about putting a resrictor in the heater hose to prevent blowing out the heater core. Something like that may allow the control valve to give a better adjustment from warm to hot.
Maybe putting a valve on the intake manifold hose connection. You could open it a little and see how the heater control performs.
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