Does anyone know how difficult it is to change out a 1968 F100 2wd from front drum to disk brakes? And how much does something like this usually cost? What year trucks are compatable with the '68 for the parts?

 

Martin, Since the 65-79 is bolt up exchange, it is pretty easy. I bought a 76 F100 donor, harvested the parts that I needed & wanted including 2 speed wiper motor, and sold other parts. Excluding disc brake pads and a new master cylinder my parts were free.
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Check this tech article out, I think it will help. https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/65-72_brake_conversion.php

 

I just checked this out, do I need a booster and master cyl. form the 73 to 79 or can I use the ones from my 71 drum power brake assy.?

 

Huntsman --

ooooooh...how sWEET it iz!! You KNOW how to build a truck! Loved your gallery pix!!....so fine!

 

Laptopgeek, Thanks for the kind words on our truck.

Revrick, My understanding on brake systems is that you have less problems if you pull the 'complete' brakes system with all the components. They are engineered to work together without problems. I have heard that a drum brake master cylinder will not put out the volume of fluid required by the larger caliper cylinder. Good luck.

 

Thanks, that makes sense to me. But you know how it is, try and use what you've got. Thanks for enlighting me. All info is good

 

I am just finishing up this swap. I decided to go to power steering at the same time. I went to a junk yard because of lack of space for a donor.

I started by pulling from the donor:
1) Front I-beams (I-beams, radius arms, springs, spring clips, shocks, Steering linkage, calipers, spindles and rotors) I removed the front fenders first and this made everything a lot easier.
2) Disk brake frame brackets. (Rivited on, I used a big hammer and chisel)
3) Brake lines, Hard and rubber.
4) Proportioning valve. (cut the wires and take the connector, get the bracket also)
5) Brake booster and master cylinder. (Get the mounting brackets)
6) Power steering box.
7) Power Steering pump and Hoses. (get the mounting brackets)
8) Power steering column and shaft.
9) Brake pedal (not necesary but good to have anyway, Grap the switch and connector also).
10) Every bolt, nut, retainer and clip I pulled off along the way.

Tools:
Big breaker bar
Two socket sets. One up to ~1 1/8"
Extensions, A long one is handy for the brake pedal.
Set of wrenches.
Set of flare nut wrenches.
Pliers, Cutters.
Screw drivers, philips and straight.
Propane torch.
Hammer.
Metal Chissel.
Big sturdy plastic box to carry everything.
Hand truck.
Rags.
Drinks.

I purchased:
1) new pads
2) new radius arm bushings
3) new link boots
4) new brake line


When I got home I pulled the same components from my truck.

I installed the new components in this order.
1) steering box
2) brake pedal (I used an oxy/acc torch to bend the new pedal a few degrees)
4) steering column
5) brake booster and master cylinder
6) proportioning valve
7) brake line frame brackets
8) brake lines
9) I-beams

I took my time and wire brushed and painted all my new parts. It took me about 3 weekend to do the swap.

 

I recently completed the drum to disc on my 67 F100. Pretty easy going step by step. The one thing that perplexed me when I was thru was that my steering box was not centered. That is, I had 2 1/4 turns to the right and only 1 3/4 turns to the left. Made lefthand U-turns very scary. Kept running into curbs.

With advice from this site I discovered that on the 67 I also needed to switch to a disc brake system passenger side drag link(tie rod). I don't know if it's necessary on 68 and later. The problem is that the disc brake tie rod mounting holes on the spindles are about 1 inch farther apart than the drum spindles holes. I went to the wrecking yard and pulled a drag link from a 1976 which is longer, and cured the problem.

 

MP Brakes has a complete bolton kit that doesn't require you to take off your I-Beams or spindles and you can get it in manual or power booster

 

FE427TP --

What is "MP brakes"? Is this a web site?....I think I'd like to have power brakes on Harrison as it wouldn't rob any of the awsome power lurking beneath the fenders....

 

MP is Master Power Brakes. Http://www.mpbrakes.com.

I bought one of their kits. It's really nice to install all new stuff. Took about 8 hours including the power booster. I did have some problems to sort out after the installation was completed. One was I needed the longer passenger side tie rod as I said earlier. Also, I had to add about 3"inches to the steel front brake lines where they connect to the rubber lines, no big deal.
However when all done the pedal was very hard with no give and I could not get the tires to lock up no matter how hard I stood on the pedal. I understand that locking the brakes is not a measure of good braking. But the truck just did not stop well. I was very disappointed after laying out about $1200. I called MP and they are nice. They had sold hundreds of the kits and I was the first to have the complaint of hard pedal and poor stopping. MP gave me some advice to check out but I never found any malfunctioning parts. I had a brake pressure gauge which told me my pressures were ok to front 1000# and rear 650#. My vacuum to the power unit was an accepatable 18"

So I began experimenting to finally get the braking I thought was right:
1. I returned the 1 1/8" master cylinder for a smaller 1" to get higher brake line pressure to all wheels. Resulted in a softer pedal but still on the hard side. MP was very cooperative in exchanging at no cost.
2. I next upgraded to Performance Friction Brand brake pads -$25 at Auotzone. A little more stopping power.
3. I replaced the stock 7/8" rear wheel cylinders with 1" diameter cylinders to give higher brake pressure in the rear. The larger diameter in the rear resulted in making the pedal a little more soft to an acceptable range. But still not great.
4. I finally swapped the stock proportioning valve in the MP kit with an adjustable Wilwood rear valve - $40 at Summit Racing. MP sells the exact valve for $80. The adjustable was the biggest single improvement. I have the system adjusted so the rears just start chirping when I make an emergency stop.

I am finally satisfied.

Then at 3000 miles both the inner wheel bearings in the MP kit wore out. They were made in China.
For what it's worth , to do it again, I may go to the bone yard. But all parts is still very nice.

 

sullyda1 --

Thanks for the web site. Good luck with those expensive brakes!!....

 

Listen to John,

1200 bucks?? :-staun Buy a donor and swap out the front end! I did it, got all the parts for free: Power everthing with discs, column, C6 tranny, and an extra 390 motor including brackets.Parted out the rest and made 100 bucks more than I paid for it. Plus, you will have the time to make sure you get everything you will need!! Thanks for the advice John! Nothing like free parts!

Ken
74 Bronco 351W
68 F100 390

 

sullyda1 at nearly $1000 I would hope they would be more than kind and curtious. Man that is alot fo money to have something not work like it should. JMHO I think the donor truck Idea or all day in the junk yard robbin parts sounds a whole lot better.

I have really been considering a whole new front end for the old FORD(suspension). I was looking at the FatMan Fab Mustang II IFS kit. It comes hub to hub with brakes and a power or manual Rack steering for right around $2000.00. Some of it depends on which steering kit you get bigger rotors and so on. But if NEW Disc Brakes caost $1000.00, guess what I am going to do?? Thats right new IFS system for me I think. I was wanting to lower the front end a tad anyway. I heave heard 2 inches is about what FatMan IFS will give.

I am not trying to goudge you in any way. I am simply a little worried that a company charging $1000.00 for brakes is having any kind of problem at all. They should be using the VERY best components that they can find for that price. MHO onca again.


Scotty