I unscrewed the backing on the ballast and opend it up. What I saw was a thick layer of waterproof puddy that covered its internal components. I stopped right there and put the cover back on. I know that these ballast store voltage and I dont want to get shocked. What I have done now is I have hung them up next to a kerosene heater since last night. They will be dry by tonight and I will def seal up all the areas with silicone. Then I will mount it in a dry place. The place where I had them mounted before was along the fenders because I wanted to utilize the holes on the fender to zip tie these units. Now, I will have to use double sided tape to finish the installation.

 

It's good that they're potted...

You may want put some di-electric grease in your connectors when you re-install 'em. It will help seal out the moisture.

Let us know what happens when you re-install 'em.

I'm kinda curious if spiggy's suggestion about leaving them on for a while, if they don't fire, works.

 

ill let you guys know. Since you are an expert, Wildcard, will the use of silicone be proper around the connectors and around the seam of the ballast to prevent future water damage?

 

Tdister is right about the fridge ...it will dry it faster then out in the air...or a heat gun will do the trick also if your careful enough with it.

Corrosion X is some wicked stuff... but some good contact cleaner purchased almost anywhere will do the job for ya if you dont see any physical signs of corrosion on the the contacts(just make sure it says its safe for plastics). The ballast wiring is already electrically insulated during the manufacturing process so I would't worry about that if I was you. I have seen Ballast assemblies completely submerged when a light fixture filled up with water and the fixture still lit up.

As for getting shocked by a ballast...I have never been hit by a stored charge in any type of ballast and I have changed more then I like to think of...so I wouldnt worry about poking around in there under the Potting Compound. If you are still nervous about it...just take the input lead and short them together and then do the same for the output leads...this will dissipate any stored enegery if there some.

I deally using a potting compund inside the ballast would be the best bet to eliminate moisture. 3M Gella 2123 is some awesome stuff and is easy to work with. You can remove it when you need to make repairs and its semi transparent so you can see what it is covering...Only problem is they don't sell it at home depot and that means you will have to order ir through a 3M distributor or online...and at about 30+ for 12ozs...it isnt cheap...but considering I use it for Sealing the detection loops after tuning in the streets of West Philly I think it will work well under the hood of your truck.

Now as for using silicon...it will work...problem is it is not sepcifically made for that purpose and is messy...

another readily available option would be 3M ScotchKote ...this provides and excellent moisture barrier and you may be able to pick it up at A Home Depot (I Havent shopped there in years But I know they Used to sell it). It comes with a little brush applicator and seems like it goes on easily...but trust me...after 2 mins it will be everywhere. It does an awesome job at moisture sealing stuff and is non electrically conductive. I primarily use this stuff on splices to water proof them in direct burial applicatiions but I have used this stuff in a pinch to protect components from moisture and to insulate PCB's where repairs have been field modified with excellent results.

Now back to your wiring. I didn't think of this until after I already posted last night and was heading out the door but did you install the relays yourself or are they the ones that came with the kit. See the reason I ask is do they have clamping diodes on the coils? If not then you will have to install them. This falls under the turn them on and leave them on and see if they eventually light test. DC relay coils have an inherent problem what it known as chattering. What happens is when the coil initially gets charged the coil acts as a choke...when the energy is stored in the coil it has no where to go so it pushes back on the voltage coming in...this will cause the contact to open and close rapidly until the energy is dissipated. At the same token it can also cause voltage spikes as well damaging electronics. The clamping diode will eliminate this problem. If your relays are chattering even just a bit...this might be causing the igmnition problem...this is also why you would want to test the lights without the relays. ANyway...if it comes to that and you find out that the problem is relay related and you need a diode just go to Radio Shack and ask them for it. A 1N4001 should be suffient for this purpose and just wire it up as close to the relay coil connections as possible...




Hope this helps. Pretty much though you will be doing a lot of trial and error when figuring crap like this out. It even makes it more difficult if you have had 1 or 2 beers before doing so...this is why I suggest 4-5 minimum before you start.

 

I have learned sooo much from this little thread I started. Thanks guys for taking your time and inputting very technical information for a lost soul. I have it drying in the bathroom, and I will place it in the fridge for couple of hours. Thanks guy and I will post the results.

 

Great post spiggy! Great wiring diagram.

I think he just wants to seal the ballast case since the interior is already potted. A good quality silicon will do that.

But I do like the idea of the scotchkote. We use the stuff to seal the wiring connections on our pipe inspection camera heads.

is300wrx,

Don't use the silicon on the connectors. The di-electric grease inside the connectors will keep out the moisture and make for good connections.

Let us know

 

Did you try swapping those ballasts left to right and vice versa yet like previously mentioned?

 

Here are the results.


I swapped sides and now the "faulty" ballast is on my driver side. Beleive it or not, after 10 attempts, they both fired up 8 out of 10 times. And the two times it did not fire, it was on my passenger side. I am mounted the driver side ballast underneath the air take tubing, and the passenger side ballast directly behind the headlights. No water is going near it unless I submerge my truck (no plans). Hopefully, in a week or so, all the water will be dried out and they will work 100% of the time.

 

......these ballast are going back. Now both headlights dont fire.....Jesus....if this doesnt work, I am going back to halogen.

 

I had a feeling you were having ballast probelms...

Sorry to hear that..

Hopefully, they are under warranty.

 

they are...and I will let you guys know how it goes in couple of days..I'm sure I am not one of their TOP PRIORITIES and I can almost guarantee they will ship it back regular ground...

 

See post #3. Problem solved.

 

When ya get the new ones back in...try sealing them up right from the start and then see where it goes from there...Make sure the gaskets are sealed and the ballast is correctly potted. Then if that doesnt work ask Motley for a full refund considering he is so anxious for you to go back to stock..I am sure he wont have any problems paying for the set up you have now.

 

Yea, but Spiggy, if he buys the setup from is300wrx we'll be helping him...

And so far his posts have been so helpful on this problem....

 

So true WildCard...so true....I dont know what I was thinking