gouged cam bearings when swapping cams?pressure loss when oil gets thinner from heat thru gouge/nicks in the cam bearing?

 

i doubt it is cam bearings...ive done 14 cam swap in other motors(chevy and ford) and every motor im always CAREFUL when i install the cam....as slow and carefully as i slide the cam in theres no way i could nick or gouge the bearings.....


heres something someone suggested from another forum


"When you change the heads I'll bet you put some ballsy *** valve springs in there, right? They may be too tight and not allowing the lifters to pump up at all. Vert, maybe yours are just a little too tight and they hold up too 3G. I can't take credit for this, it just came up on another board recently and somebody who knows gobs more about engines suggested it. It makes sense b/c both of these guys have went over the valve trains thoroughly multiple times, changed cams, changed blocks, yada, yad, yada. The only constant seems to be the springs stregnth as they've never been changed."

yes i do have some ballsy *** valve springs in it....maybe it is time for a solid roller cam and lifters?
im wondering how often do you normally have to adjust the valves in a solid lifter motor??? are they and more noisy than hyd lifter motors when properly adjusted???
can you run regular solid lifters with any cam or does the cam have to be specifically made for solid lifters???

i dont see why you couldnt run solid lifters on a fairly mild cam???

what about solid rollers??? they could be run on any flat tappet designed cam right??? you woudl just be loosing part of the advantage of roller lifters due to the steep ramps that can be run with roller lifters...correct or no???

 

are they the correct springs for the cam?i take it the guy is talking about too much spring pressure and not coil bind.

i wouldn't run roller lifters unless it's a roller cam.i check mine before going to the dunes but usually there is nothing to adjust,they stay put pretty well.of course there isn't alot of miles put on between checks.a street roller is easier on parts and you could probably go all year and not have to lash them,just check them every once in a while.solid lifters are a little noisy but i like the sound they make.just make sure if you do go solid roller that you have enough room for the added installed height a solid roller spring requires.may need to pull heads and get spring seats cut for taller/bigger diameter springs.

i wouldn't get too crazy with the cam,it looks like the wheeling you do you are gonna want some bottom end torque.

 

i woudl prefer to keep the cam i have now....it has gobs of bottom end torque... i was just contemplating throwing some solid flat tappet lifters in instead of hyd lifters...is there any reason i couldnt do that.??? would i need to change springs??? Im running the springs reccomended for my cam by comp cams

 

well if you have the springs that were recommended for that cam by comp,the only way they would have too much pressure is if the installed height is wrong.

i have heard of solid lifters on a hyd cam but have never done it.i personally wouldn't crossbreed stuff but i know it has been done.benefits?don't know but i think a solid lifter cam would be able to more take advantage of the design than a hyd cam with solid lifters on it.a solid cam can open the valves quicker than a hyd and it isn't as limited by spring pressure.

i've run solid flat tappet cams,hydraulic flat and solid roller in my various paycheck assassinations and think they all serve their purpose.all out hp the solid roller is the only way to go but i don't think that is your goal.

solids on a hyd you would need to lash it a little so the engine would idle,valves wouldn't close otherwise.maybe someone on here has done this in the past.i'd tell you to call comp but it's hit or miss with their techies ,some of them know whats up and some of them only know how to read whats on the page in front of them.

 

thanks fo r the help man....im still lost!!

I have tried to call comp a few differnt times and they are no help

 

yeah sometimes you get some robots there.maybe call isky or crower and ask about the solid on a flat tappet idea.just be real general with your question.say"i was told it's a isky cam" or "i was told it's a crower".if you tell them it's for sure a comp they'll probably tell you to call comp.they should be able to give you more insight on using the solid lifter on a hyd.

 

AWesome man, thanks for the help.....when i get done with this dang cdl school maybe ill have time to do something!!

leave at 530 and get home at 730 every night 6 days a wee for 3 weeks, ill be done sat hopefully

i appreciate the help!!!

 

Sounds almost like a Roller Cam but obviously not

1) Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the clearence between the rocker arm and the valve cover? When oil temp rises thermal expansion happens causing the rocker arm to make contact.

2) Inspect the needle bearings on the rocker arm, they don't last forever.

3) Oil additives, have you tried Lucas ?

 

clearance is good, i had to get tall valve covers because my stock ones had little dents from each rocker arm....

Needle bearings are all tight and in good shape....they have always had fresh clean oil and have only a few thousand miles on them

I dont mess with oil additives

Ive been busy getting my cdl, and im about to go on a wheeling trip this evening and tomorrow, but after that im going to get the problem fixed...,

I think my valve spring smay be too heavy...im going to look into that first