Poor idle when cold on warm days
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Poor idle when cold on warm days
On warm days when I frist start up I am getting un unstable idle. It drops down to low rpms the idles back up. In cold weather this is not a problem but as temps increase it gets more prominate. Also as the temps warm up I am getting a check engine light on in the dash. I will have to pull codes tonight. Since its temperature related I was thinking the IAT sensor? Or maybe some idle control sensor? Also I am in Fort Wayne, IN so temp right now is 45-50. I had this last year and it went away as temps dropped.
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
Glad you found us
see you hv a '92 and engine size?
pull KOEO, KOER codes and cylinder balance test
please post to forum
may be I.dle A.ir C.ontrol valve...common idle problem....located next to throttle body at front of plenum....the electric solenoid valve gums up from PVC, air dirt and dust, EGR deposits...some have succes removing and cleaning IAC with throttle body or carb cleaner....Ford service says not serviceable, replace only.....pull electrical control plug on end while engine is idling....if engine dies, IAC is working...may still be partially sticking from deposits
but start with codes first....no use throwing expensive parts away
see you hv a '92 and engine size?
pull KOEO, KOER codes and cylinder balance test
please post to forum
may be I.dle A.ir C.ontrol valve...common idle problem....located next to throttle body at front of plenum....the electric solenoid valve gums up from PVC, air dirt and dust, EGR deposits...some have succes removing and cleaning IAC with throttle body or carb cleaner....Ford service says not serviceable, replace only.....pull electrical control plug on end while engine is idling....if engine dies, IAC is working...may still be partially sticking from deposits
but start with codes first....no use throwing expensive parts away
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That IAC you mentioned does sound familiar. I did pull codes last year but it went away before I had time to fix it. The engine is a 3.0L with 100,000 miles on it. Thanks for the quick responce and I will post results tonight.
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From: Wichita
Originally Posted by dyceskynes
I was not able to pull codes yet, I am still trying to get the rear drums off.
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Thanks I will see if I can back them down any more. If not then I am going to get the persuader.
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I got them off, all it needed was a little fire. The bad news is that i put the brake pads on the wrong side, *smacks head*. I guess its good practice though right? I did notice that one side showed heavy pad wear and the other not so much. Thinking either adjuster froze, piston is dead, or abstruction in the brake line.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
good job...perseverance is the best form of auto maintenance
the rear brake "adjusters" on Aero are almost worthless, teeth and dogs edges wear and round off, dirt and road salt corrosion lock them up
now is the time to find reversed shoes, not in a 70 mph panic stop black night in the rain freeway stop with the family along
new cylinders are cheap insurance, old pitted ones are not worth honing and rebuilding, once rust starts in the bore-it's impossible to stop
the flex brake lines do break down internally, the neoprene chucks off and plugs lines, cylinder orfices and prevents brake off let down with resulting shoe/pad drag...they are a maintenance replacement part just like oil filters and spark plugs
the rear brake "adjusters" on Aero are almost worthless, teeth and dogs edges wear and round off, dirt and road salt corrosion lock them up
now is the time to find reversed shoes, not in a 70 mph panic stop black night in the rain freeway stop with the family along
new cylinders are cheap insurance, old pitted ones are not worth honing and rebuilding, once rust starts in the bore-it's impossible to stop
the flex brake lines do break down internally, the neoprene chucks off and plugs lines, cylinder orfices and prevents brake off let down with resulting shoe/pad drag...they are a maintenance replacement part just like oil filters and spark plugs
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Freshman User
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I tried to pull codes but no luck. I am using a prolink and I can run all the test but nothing for active codes. I just got the aerostar repair book and says the check engine light refers to the emissions error. I got a new pcv valve but not put it in yet. I was able to get an error code on the engine running test of a 412 "unable to control RPM during High RPM self-test". everything else came out good.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
412=PCM could not increase idle speed above normal idle during KOER high RPM idle check. Suspect throttle body coking.
clean TB with TB/FI spray cleaner into front of TB after lossening clamp and removing black intake plastic hose, use liberally, open plate and spray/wipe backside of plate and inner TB....may want to remove TB and spray wipe from both ends.....work plate shaft and spray pivot holes
also....may be sticking IAC valve mounted on plenum just behind TB....clean with same cleaner or per Ford=replace
ECU/PCM codes indicate more than just emissions problems....tranny problems...air filter restrictions....failing plugs or ignition wires....worn camshaft chain and gears....failed thermostat...
newest OBDII CAN systems have in excess of 2k unique codes
clean TB with TB/FI spray cleaner into front of TB after lossening clamp and removing black intake plastic hose, use liberally, open plate and spray/wipe backside of plate and inner TB....may want to remove TB and spray wipe from both ends.....work plate shaft and spray pivot holes
also....may be sticking IAC valve mounted on plenum just behind TB....clean with same cleaner or per Ford=replace
ECU/PCM codes indicate more than just emissions problems....tranny problems...air filter restrictions....failing plugs or ignition wires....worn camshaft chain and gears....failed thermostat...
newest OBDII CAN systems have in excess of 2k unique codes
Last edited by 96_4wdr; May 8, 2006 at 05:25 PM.
