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Started Wicked Wheel and Gauges Having Problems

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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:44 PM
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From: Byron, IL
Angry Started Wicked Wheel and Gauges Having Problems

I tried to do the WW without removing the turbo and that didnt work so I pulled the turbo off.Had a heck of a time getting the back pipe clamp to come loose to pull the turbo out. Finally it came off and didnt have any problems changing the WW then got it all ready to reinstall turbo and couldnt get the same clamp back on the turbo. The back clamp i could get it in the right position but couldnt get the bolt and nut back on to tighten it up. The only way I could get the clamp on was to remove that bolt and nut. after all day I ended up getting a longer bolt and got it tightened up but now I want to somehow keep that together with a clamp plyiers and put the right bolt back on it I really can use your help I am going to try again tomorrow morning PLEASE help
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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Did you get the alignment dowel on the collector in the hole in the turbo inlet? The only way that clamp would not be long enough, especially with the nut removed, is if there is a gap between the mating surfaces. If you smoked it down with a longer bolt you may have crushed the dowel pin.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:53 PM
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From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Wieckster
I tried to do the WW without removing the turbo and that didnt work so I pulled the turbo off.Had a heck of a time getting the back pipe clamp to come loose to pull the turbo out. Finally it came off and didnt have any problems changing the WW then got it all ready to reinstall turbo and couldnt get the same clamp back on the turbo. The back clamp i could get it in the right position but couldnt get the bolt and nut back on to tighten it up. The only way I could get the clamp on was to remove that bolt and nut. after all day I ended up getting a longer bolt and got it tightened up but now I want to somehow keep that together with a clamp plyiers and put the right bolt back on it I really can use your help I am going to try again tomorrow morning PLEASE help
I've not done this and am not sure which clamp you are talking about. Some ideas do come to mind though. Duct dape the snot out of the clamp to hold it tight enough to replace the bolt or use cable ties (AKA zip ties) to do it. How much clearance do you have there?
On Edit: Well if what Scott said is the case, you shouldn't have an issue replacing the original bolt.
 

Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Apr 1, 2006 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:56 PM
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no I got the pin lined up just couldnt get the nut started back on with the bolt that is required its on there now just wondering what I did wrong to not beable to get the clamp pulled together to get nut on?????????????
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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No...if you're sure the pin is good, you don't have a problem. Occasionlly if v-band clamps are bent a little on removal, it's like tryng to compress a spring to get it back together. Wrap some heavy wire through the loops on the ends of the clamp....that will hold it together enough to get the correct bolt back in.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:20 AM
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ok thanks cookie thanks hey one other question is the hose for the ccv mod 3/4 " or half i forgot to measure it today I think I will do that since I got it tore apart now anyway. do I have to cut the section out where the ccv is in the intake tube? thank you for all your help I hope tomorrow goes alot better then today did
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:39 AM
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Wieckster, I also did the WW today and had the same exact problem with that back clamp on the uppipe. What a pain in the A$$! I think what cookie said was right in my case in that in trying to get it OFF it gets a bit bent and distorted and then putting it back on it is a bit out of shape. I finally took the nut off, used a scredriver against the firewall to hold the T part in the clamp and then another screwdriver to force the clamp small enough so my dad could finally get the nut started. everything went smooth after that!
The hose for the CCV mod is 3/4". You need to replace the plastic part of the CCV with 4" stainless pipe. I had a piece left over from instaling my MBRP exhaust that worked perfect! Cut a 4" piece or go to an exhaust shop and ask for a piece of scrap laying around.
I love the whistle now though!!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 10:40 AM
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the hose i used was 1/2'' ID heater hose, that was 1" OD, and fit perfectly in the elbow that goes into the doghouse. superglue it (my 02) or hose clamp it ('95 PSD) and you dont have to worry about any fussy connectors.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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Well I finished my WW and CCV mods today what a nightmare the WW was but its done and whistles good the CCV worked out good I just turned the elbow to the side and used a pc of 1/2" to get the tube going then used 3/4" tube the rest of the way back. I didnt have a pc. of 4 in. so I used a bolt in the pc and siliconed it so it wouldnt leak and it worked great and its done I didnt hook the line into the exhaust yet just running out the back end should be OK like that or do I have to hookit nto the exhaust?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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From: 21791
you can let it dump out in the atmosphere, most do it that way. however when stopped a cloud of CC mist can go up, come around the side of the truck and you can actually see a cloud of stuff. i got lots of negative comments about the mist cloud so i tied mine into my exhaust. check out my gallery.
 
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