no spark !
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no spark !
ok guys i ain't no mechanic that i will admit but , i just went out to start my 1979 302 engine that is installed in my 1955 f100 . this is the first time i have tried to start it since the install. she turns over fine but has no spark coming from the coil . i have replaced the coil with another one from a 1978 302 that was running about 8 months ago and the same thing . no spark . i have hot wired the system just to hear it run . what in the heck am i over looking ?
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
So you're using the control module and the correct coil that goes with the Duraspark system? If you're not using the control module which must be wired up correctly, you won't get spark.
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yeah that was my guess also . i have the original coil but that didn't give me any spark so i went with the coil from the 78 which had a larger style distributor but the same type of hook up . but still no spark . it is wired the the box ( i think this is what you called the control module?) i don't have that bolted down it is just setting on the frame at the moment . their are wires coming from the box that are not connected but i am not sure where these go as i didn't remove the engine from the donor car . any thoughts? thanks
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
The control module has two plugs coming out of it. One of them goes to the wiring harness that connects the module, coil and distributor together. The other has two wires, a white one and a red one.
Here's a diagram of how it should be wired up:
As you can see, the white wire gets a full 12 volts while cranking, so it should be hooked to the terminal on the starter solenoid that's energized while cranking. The red wire should be hot while the key is on.
Here's a diagram of how it should be wired up:
As you can see, the white wire gets a full 12 volts while cranking, so it should be hooked to the terminal on the starter solenoid that's energized while cranking. The red wire should be hot while the key is on.
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you hit the nail on the head . the red and white wires are not hooked up . is there a way of wiring these up temporary so i can fire the engine . i just want to hear what it sounds like and to correct any problems (hopefully there won't be any lol ). there is no ignition switch at the moment . i have a jumper wire on the selenoid to activate it .
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thanks tiger dan i will try this sunday afternoon. i will let you know . i have owned this engine before and she was a power house . the guy that i got it back from just could not afford to run it . she loves the fuel . it has been about 8yrs since i owned it and want to hear it run before i start putting the money into other parts i need to finish the project .
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ok , now i'm really stuck . i ran a wire on the red side of the module to the positive side of the battery . still no spark. does the module need to be grounded ? or is there something else that i need to do ? or does the white wire need to go back to the starter side of the soleniod switch too?
Last edited by 1955effie; Apr 2, 2006 at 09:02 AM.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
It should run with just the red wire hooked up, and no, the module doesn't need to be grounded in order to run, although it's a good idea to ground it simply by screwing it down snug to a metal surface. Make sure all the connections are tight and the wires are are in good shape, especially at the connectors.
It's possible you have a bad module, they do tend to fail. You might be able to scrounge a spare from somewhere to try it, or do you have another Duraspark vehicle that you can try the module on to see if it works? They're about 25 bucks or so to replace.
Another consideration is when replacing the module is first look at the plastic grommet on the module that the wires come out of. They are color coded for different applications, but I believe any color will still work. The blue grommet is the best all-around perfomance and general usage module.
Here's some more Duraspark info:
http://users3.ev1.net/~bmarr/duraspa...on_upgrade.htm
http://www.wps.com/AMC/distributor/index.html
It's possible you have a bad module, they do tend to fail. You might be able to scrounge a spare from somewhere to try it, or do you have another Duraspark vehicle that you can try the module on to see if it works? They're about 25 bucks or so to replace.
Another consideration is when replacing the module is first look at the plastic grommet on the module that the wires come out of. They are color coded for different applications, but I believe any color will still work. The blue grommet is the best all-around perfomance and general usage module.
Here's some more Duraspark info:
http://users3.ev1.net/~bmarr/duraspa...on_upgrade.htm
http://www.wps.com/AMC/distributor/index.html
Last edited by TigerDan; Apr 2, 2006 at 11:00 AM.
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hi . it's me again . i am going to tackle this again this weekend . i just went out and replaced the module this morning with another one(used) i have power too the module on the red wire but nothing is hot coming out . which one is the hot wire and does the engine need to be cranking to engauge ? thanks
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
The engine will need to be cranking to generate spark. If you've got power to the red wire supplying the module in both start and run positions, next go ahead and make sure the module is grounded. I've run them with the module sitting loose, but there needs to be a good system ground so it can't hurt to cover all the bases. Also, make sure the distributor is clamped down at least snug, maybe just barely loose enough to allow you to adjust it with a bit of effort once it starts (unless you're sure it's already spot-on.)
If everything is wired up correctly, you have no broken wires and you're using a known good coil and module, then the only thing left is the stator assembly (pickup) in the distributor. These are usualy quite reliable, but it's possible to have a bad one and if it's dead, so will your ignition be.
If everything is wired up correctly, you have no broken wires and you're using a known good coil and module, then the only thing left is the stator assembly (pickup) in the distributor. These are usualy quite reliable, but it's possible to have a bad one and if it's dead, so will your ignition be.
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ok , i have power going to the module on the red wire and it's bolted down to the frame but with the motor cranking by jumping accross the solenoid i still have no power showing coming out of the box on any of the wires with my test light . i have done this test with both duraspark boxes and i get the same results . the block is grounded to the frame and the modules have been grounded also . and the coil and brackets have clean metal and bolted to the block .
Last edited by 1955effie; Apr 8, 2006 at 11:15 AM.
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
Have you tested the wire you're using to supply power to the red wire to be sure it's still got power when cranking? Or are you taking power directly off the battery?
I don't know that I've ever actually checked the wires with a test light so I'm not sure what you should be seeing there, I've always just hooked the system up and had it light off. If all the componants are good, it's pretty foolproof.
Here's another wiring diagram I found that seems a little clearer than some of the others:
I don't know that I've ever actually checked the wires with a test light so I'm not sure what you should be seeing there, I've always just hooked the system up and had it light off. If all the componants are good, it's pretty foolproof.
Here's another wiring diagram I found that seems a little clearer than some of the others: