When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have an '01 PSD F250. Had rotor vibrations at 112k. Had them turned, new pads, bearings and seals. Lasted a while, but started again. Bought a set of Wearevers from Adv Auto, they lasted about 11 months, got them replaced on warranty, 128K, but second set warped, also. I took my old stock rotors to O'Reilly Auto and they turned them a second time 158,900 miles and those brakes feel better than they ever did. Truck now has 161K on it. I'll keep you posted on this go'round.
........I also used permatex anit-seize lubricant as opposed to silicone lube.......
I like your suggestion on polishing the pin bores, would have been quicker than my way, especially if you have rust/corrosion in the bore. I was considering using the same anti-seize but had many people tell me that it's great for engine bolts but will gum up rapidly when used on the calipers and could make the pin boots swell up and leak so I spent $27 on a big tube of silicone grease made specifically for calipers.
I like your suggestion on polishing the pin bores, would have been quicker than my way, especially if you have rust/corrosion in the bore. I was considering using the same anti-seize but had many people tell me that it's great for engine bolts but will gum up rapidly when used on the calipers and could make the pin boots swell up and leak so I spent $27 on a big tube of silicone grease made specifically for calipers.
Yes, the proper lube for the job, no matter what the cost.
Yea, the use of the permatex was more of a "what do you mean you dont have any silicone lubricant" at the two parts stores I visited (auto zone, slim pickens here in south FL) I settled on the permatex. I am sure Napa has silicone lube but they are a bit out of the way. The permatex applied well and seems to have the properties required. I didnt consider the effect it may have on the boots. I will keep you posted on that one. Once again thanks for the tutorial. It was a great reference and well put together.
Update.. I finally got around to doing a full brake job front and back. I turned all four rotors and put new hawk pads on the truck. This is what stopped the bouncing. The slide pin upgrade was an improvement but the only thing that really smoothed it out was turning the rotors and putting on new pads. I will try a different method of breaking and see how that goes. I think the break and coast to a stop method will add some life to the rotors and prevent the heat warp that seems to plague these trucks. FYI the back rotors were a ***** to get off. Took some banging with a BFH on a piece of wood placed flush on the back of the rotor.
I recall some engineer type who said that in the early days, castings to be machined into rotors were set out in racks to let the weather and temperature variations relieve the stresses in the casting which naturally occur because different parts of the casting cool at different rates after the pour. After months of slow stress relief the castings were machined, and afterward, during driving, the spot heatups due to brake application did not produce warping, since the internal stresses were already relieved. Nowadays, he said, economics forbids letting parts lay around to relieve stresses, and the castings go to the machine shop right away and the customer pays for remachining after the brake heat causes warpage.
If this all be true, then put up with the brake pulsing and pedal vibration as long as you can still operate safely. Then have the rotors turned, and maybe the stresses will all have been relieved by the braking, and the warpage won't come back.
Makes a good story, anyhow.
Warren
I recall some engineer type who said that in the early days, castings to be machined into rotors were set out in racks to let the weather and temperature variations relieve the stresses in the casting which naturally occur because different parts of the casting cool at different rates after the pour. After months of slow stress relief the castings were machined, and afterward, during driving, the spot heatups due to brake application did not produce warping, since the internal stresses were already relieved. Nowadays, he said, economics forbids letting parts lay around to relieve stresses, and the castings go to the machine shop right away and the customer pays for remachining after the brake heat causes warpage.
If this all be true, then put up with the brake pulsing and pedal vibration as long as you can still operate safely. Then have the rotors turned, and maybe the stresses will all have been relieved by the braking, and the warpage won't come back.
Makes a good story, anyhow.
Warren
The story is true though, weathering or the quicker way " Heat Treating" does releive the stresses in materials. Thats why all of our fabricated frames for our machines get stress relieved, Heated then cooled at a slow rate, while being steel shot blasted. Just wish automanufactures would pony up for the added 2 cents in cost per rotor. Sure would save us a head ache.
My rotors lasted about 3k miles after haveing the factory turn them under warranty, then I did them my self at my buddies shop, that time they went warpless about 10k miles. Now they nearly rattle the filling out of my teeth when I stop slowly. My driving style is not what I would call harsh by any standards, although I am towing about 9k 40+% of the time, but nothing the truck should wimper over.
Some one mentioned the powerslot rotors, was the cost on them? I may have to try a set.
I got close to 120k before new brakes with no problems. The factory rotors are known to pit so I would not try to have them turned (never had any luck with that) I replaced with all with new (Rotors ran about $100 ea)
rub it in kwik. I bet it's due to the fact you are in the NW. Lots of rain and cool weather probably keep the rotors from getting heated to the point of warping. Here in Sunny FL it's 90 degrees and dry 80% of the time. I have a friend in town that turns his front rotors every 6 months until they are below tolerance and then he replaces them.
I am with you Kwik. I check mine the other day. Truck now has 75K on it. All parts are factory. No warps or rattles. I do hear a weird ring occasionally. I have not figured out if it is coming from the front or rear. The brakes are not affected when this happens. The noise is hard to describe.
Anybody use the rotors from NAPA? I had good luck with them on my F150. I changed my front pads a month or so ago and saw the rotors were down to the wear indicators, so it's rotor/pad time soon since the warping has started.....
Also, I saw something on TV the other day about turning rotors. The guy turned them on the machine, then did a final dress on them with some 150 grit sand paper on a sanding block. He said that it's a very important step that most shops either forget or plain don't do at all...... I know the places around here don't do it.
He said the sandpaper knocks down the high spots left from the machining (turning) of the rotors. It was interesting to say the least.
Last edited by John7894; Jul 28, 2006 at 09:16 AM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.