OK, this is what happened... i let my truck sit for aobut a month. Then i figured, its getting cold... i should really start it. Then i couldnt find my keys, so instead of starting it with my keys i decided to start it by jumping the solenoid. so i connected the + side of the coil to the + side of the battery and started it that way.
Then i finshed and left the + coil to the + battery connected and that drained the coil and the battery. So i bought a new coil and autozone recharged my battery. I went to start it, but it would just crank and crank and crank, and would not start. so whats the problem? why isnt it starting? when i left it connected like that all night there was a oil coming out of the coil. Any reason to what is going on? Thanks! Oh yea i found the keys.

 

You might have cooked the ignition modulator too Chris.

Dennis

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Chris: If I've got this right, you connected the coil to the battery, right?
Well, here's what happened: you short circuited your battery through the coil and the points and the condenser, and THAT's what burned up your coil and drained your battery. Try replacing your points and condenser, and check the electrical connections inside the distributor as well.

Now for an electrical theory lesson: Your spark is created inside a dual wound coil. It is a transformer. One coil carries 12V (actually 6V, more on that later) from the ignition switch to the points and grounds out through the points. When the points close, they create a magnetic field within the coil. There is another winding or coil inside the first one; it is connected to the spark wire out of the top. When the points open, the magnetic field collapses, which generates a current inside the second coil. The windings inside the coils are set up to make it a step up coil, so your 12V gets pumped up to about 25,000V (but almost no amps, which is what kills. 1/2 V with 10amps can kill.) Thus, a big spark.

Now on the practical level, 12V is only used during the cranking cycle. There are two circuits to the coil, one from the starter solenoid through the START postion of the starter switch, and another from the RUN postion, but this second circuit is stepped down to 6V through a resistor. Lowering the voltage to the coil and points for just running keeps them lasting longer. You really only need the hotter spark from 12V while cranking.

So, when you left 12V on your system all night long, you probably fried it. Hopefully, replacing just the points and condenser will fix it. You might try restting the dwell, after cleaning the points up with a small file first. You might get lucky and get it started again!

Hope this helps.

 

ok.. thanks, but i dont have points, ihave the pertronix setup with the electrical point system. Is that ruined too? is there a warrent on the flamethrower coil and pertronix point system.?

 

either way a warranty will not cover being fried. they will be able to tell if the parts were fried. Are you getting anything out of the coil? I would start by checking to see if your getting power to the coil, then if your getting anything out of the coil when move to the dist. Good luck and I hope you find the problem...

Jack

 

how can i check to see if i am getting power to the coil, if i dotn have one of those tester thingy's. But i think i might somewhere.

 

You could use a 12 volt lamp for a tester.

 

Sorry, Chris I didn't know you had pertronix; I assumed otherwise.
Like mike said, use a 12V lamp, and you can get one the next time you're out at the boneyard by grabbing a tailight pigtail"
Good luck on fixing your problem!

 

what exactly do i do with this 12 volt lamp. can i take one off my truck? if so what one?? I am good with cars/trucks but am young and sorda still learning. once i get it, what do i connect it too. The coil? how? when starting my truck should it light up? thanks.

 

I like your attitude, Chris!
Look for a rear lamp socket out of a newer car (80s or so), where the bulb pops into plastic receptacle, and the plastic receptacle pops or twists into the talight lens. The best kind is a backup light socket. I know Chrysler products often have this kind.
Make sure it has 2 wires coming out of the socket; this is called the pigtail. Try to find a good bulb, too while you're at it, instead of buying a new one. Cut the pigtail out of the car, and try to get the wires at least 12 inches long. Longer is good.
To check for voltage, touch one of the wires to the "hot" post on the thing you wish to check, and ground the other wire. If the bulb lights, you have juice. If it lights weakly, make sure you have good contacts. IF it still lights weakly, you need to check other things, but the pigtail is great for quick initial checks.

Hope this helps!

By the way, you'll need to be sure that the Petronix system uses a steady 12V to the coil. My guess is that it doesn't; most electronic systems don't. Others can help you on this subject better, because I still run points on my trucks.