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How much can I tow?

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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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Question How much can I tow?

Right now I have a 1997 F150 super cab 6ft box 4.6 v8 auto 4r7w? -(I think thats right, I know its not the e4od) 8.8 rear end 3.55 gears . I do not have the towing package but I have added a class 4 hitch. also have hellwig overload springs. I just flushed the trans and coolant, so i think i am good there. Also i am thinking about anding a trans cooler? I am planning on pulling so good sizes loads coming up, lumber for a 10x14 deck, concrete for a 15x20 patino etc.. I think they will be in the 4 to 6k mark with the trailer. How much can i tow safely with out damaging anything? Also what about a trans cooler? I was looking into f250s, but I cant get rid of this one so it will have to do for now I guess...

Thanks, Josh
 
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Stock setup should be 6250lbs, (Pulling a trailer). Since you plan on hitting the 6K mark, a tranny cooler would be a good idea. Cheaper than replacing the tranny. Also, for the trailer, get a weight distribution kit added. (Sometimes referred to as a Sway Kit). It uses a different hitch setup, (Big honkin thing), that also attaches to the trailer with a couple of bars and chains. Helps spread the weight of the load out across both the truck and trailer and makes for better handling when towing.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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BillyBob is right about the weight. This question gets asked about twice a week, some will say you can pull 8500lb and some of factory specs will say the same, but the Real World is this----if you dont want to burn your transmission and engine up, the F150 4.6 or 5.4 is good for around 6500lb max.-------It sounds like you are set up good enough to haul 6500lb, although going by your discription of a load of lumber and concrete it sounds like it is going to be a lot heavier than 6500lb. You could pull more for short distances on flat ground but you need to be careful.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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Thats right I am trying to keep it under 6000 max, so i think that i will just make a couple of trips to local home depot,which wont be that bad, only 4 miles away. Also what about a trans cooler, would it be worth it? Also how hard is it to install my self. I am getting in to the construction trade with my uncle and only seeing my self pulling and hauling these kind of loads more and more often. I would also like my truck to last me a little bit longer.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 12:45 PM
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Concrete and lumber get heavy quick... watch yourself
What Fire105 is saying is valid and Ford even agrees with your particular set up.
Here's a heads up - your truck's GCWR (Rated Combined Weight of Truck and Trailer when fully loaded) is 11500lbs. That truck is gonna weigh 5000lbs by itself. The maximum weight of a fully loaded trailer plus hitch is only going to leave 6500lbs.

Personal rule of thumb about tranny coolers... if you plan on towing, you need one. It reduces the heat build up in the transmission. The number one reason automatics fail is due to overheating and breakdown of the fluid... then people don't change it. Many kits are available and they use the existing transmission setup. Generally they bolt up with minimal drilling and only require basic hand tools. Do a search for tranny coolers for the F150 97-03 4R70W.

-Kerry
 

Last edited by kspilkinton; Mar 30, 2006 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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I am looking at tranny coolers to add,do you guys know of any good ones? Also which size should I go with?

Also I only have the 4 pin connecter, but can I hook up the 7? Are the wires already run and such? And for you to use the trailer Brakes, do you have to have a brake contraller? and the trailer have brakes right?<O</O

 

Last edited by blackjack8900; Mar 30, 2006 at 09:08 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 10:33 AM
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I had the 4 pin when I got my truck. I went to a junk yard for a factory reciever, and with it I found a 7 pin factory harness. It replaces the factory 4 pin harness. Just plugs right in. After that. I went to the parts store to get the fuse/relays that I needed for trailer brakes, 12V supply to the trailer, and backup lights. Cost, receiver, $50. Harness $0.00 Relays $12.00

I had a brake controller from a previous truck so I went to the dealer and bought a CONTROLLER HARNESS. Wired that to the brake contoller, then just plugged it into the factory harness under the dash, just to the right of the steering column. The harness cost another $12. All in all I got a hell of a setup for under $75. A new controller though, a decent one, will cost about $80.

The only manual wiring I had to do was the controller to the new harness from the dealer. The harness from the junk yard was a factory so I just unplugged the 4 pin, (one connector next to the spare tire along the drivers side frame rail and the other connector behind the bumper between the license plate and the drivers tailight and one ground screw by the frame rail connector.). Look for one with the factory mount for the plug under the bumper. Easier to mount.

The harness from the dealer took all of 5 minutes to install. Ford did good with providing a factory location to plug in to. You don't have to cut any factory wires or anything.
 

Last edited by BillyBob69; Mar 31, 2006 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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From: South Kitsap County, WA
I have numbers from 1999-2004 (Heritage), but your truck should be very similar. The HD package (trailer towing with class III receiver) cooler was a 14 plate for the 4.6. I do not recall how many pass mine is but I believe it is a four pass, unfortunately I can't look, my truck is in another state... see my location up above.

I don't have any specific brands as my truck came from the factory with a 22 plate (HD package for a 5.4 4R70W) and I never needed to search, but those numbers above should give you a ball park to shoot for.

-Kerry
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 03:06 PM
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Does any one know of some good tranny coolers to install?
 
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